Cordless Finish Nail Gun

DeWalt Cordless 16-Gauge Finish Nailer | Toolmonger

Industry’s Best Pneumatic Framing Nailers by Mallory Kramer

For many craftsmen, a pneumatic framing nailer is one of the greatest tools in the world. Making quick work of jobs that can take what feels like forever, and doing it with professional strength and precision, these nailers are an irreplaceable asset. If you’re in the market for one of the best framing nailers in the pneumatic world, well, you’re in luck. The following is a compiled, compacted set of reviews of the best framing nailers, and their prices, on the market today.

Hitachi’s NR83A2 framing nailer is one of the most high-quality, high-performance pneumatic framers on the market today. Weighing only 7.9 lbs the tool is clearly lightweight and the tool is extremely well balanced for the most comfortable operation and maneuverability. The framer has a tool-less depth adjustment allowing craftsmen to choose their depth of drive, and with an open nose design, extracting a jammed nail is hardly a hassle. The framer also features selective actuation, a favorite feature of most users, which allow craftsmen to simply transition from single actuation to contact actuation for the greatest versatility through a variety of applications. The tool is strong, fast, and versatile, and because it’s also so lightweight and well-balanced, continuous work and awkward applications are far less strenuous. Ultimately, the NR83A2 is a seriously tough framer built for durability on the jobsite and for reliability through the most heavy-duty applications. Lastly,pricing from about 0 – 0, Hitachi’s framer is a bit spendy, but is worth every penny. (Note: This tool is also available as a sequential trigger gun (NR83A2S) for just about 0.)

On another hand, Porter-Cable’s FR350A 3-1/2″ roundhead framing nailer is one of the more heavy-duty pneumatic framing tools on the market today. With the power to drive nails up to 3-1/2″ x 131″ into engineered lumber, the tool has intense power. The framer’s compact body design contributes to its well-balance and overall smooth style while an internal piston catch mechanism ensures each shot is consistently powerful. A selectable trigger transitions modes between restrictive or contact actuation mode, and with a tool-free adjustable depth-of-drive, craftsmen have complete control over the tool’s performance. The tool is simple to reload, and a nail lockout mechanism alerts you when its time to reload your tool. Keeping your materials protected during work, the framer also has a (tool-free, adjustable) exhaust and a (removable) non-marring nose tip, and also having on-tool storage, the FR350AR is endlessly convenient. Ranging in price from about 0 – 0, the framer is abrilliant tool at a certainly reasonable price.

The FR350A is also available reconditioned (FR350AR) for just about 0. As a reconditioned tool, this nailer presents a truly superior value to craftsmen and builders. For those unfamiliar with recons, they are an extremely great value that bring craftsmen the highest-performance tools at a tiny fraction of regular cost. Reconditioned tools, for some minor cosmetic or technical defect, have been returned to the manufacturer. There, they undergo a series of stringent tests and retests and restoration processes before being re-released with an “R” trailing the model number. This little “R” (and potentially hundreds of dollars) is truly the only difference between a brand new tool and a recon. The value with reconditioned tools is a no-brainer; when they are available, buy them.

Like Hitachi and Porter-Cable, Senco is known for building some of the best pneumatic tools and nailers in the industry. With well-seasoned experience and superior craftsmanship, Senco is an steadfast contender in the world of pneumatics. Pricing from about 0 – 0, their SN902XP framing nailer is a brilliant and saucy little tool with 904 in/lbs of power in a compact, 7.3 lb package. This round head framer is also built with a innovated design that requires up to fifteen-percent less air than other comparable models, and still having the power to drive 2 – 3-1/4″ (round head plastic collated) framing nails with fast efficiency, the nailer perfectly unites precision power and lightweight convenience. The nailer also drives 2″-3-1/2″ smooth shank nails and 2″-3″ ring shank nails. The tool’s compact design also contributes to its ability to work in tight spaces in between studs and joists, and its overall balance and ease of operation. Additionally, the gun is easy to transition from rapid fire to sequential fire and is simple to load and unload for optimal convenience on the job. The SN902XP is ideal for a huge number of applications from framing, fencing and subfloors, to trusses and decking. It additionally has a patented TrueDrive magazine to prevent jamming and an adjustable depth of drive for unfailing precision with every shot. Like the above Porter-Cable nailer, Senco’s SN902XP is also available reconditioned (if you can find it) for about 0.

In the end and whatever your needs may be, one of these nailers is certain to be an ideal framer. With big power, acute precision, and the accountability of a time-honored manufacturer, these pneumatic framing nailers are the best of the best.

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iffley asked What tools are a must have for home improvement?

I’m moving into my first home and want to purchase good quality tools that I’ll be using to build a new wall, tear down an old one, refinish some cabinets and things like that. What brand of tools should I go with and what specific tools do you suggest?

And got the following answer:

17 years as a GM mechanic taught me that Snap-on tools where worth the money when you used them daily, for the average home owner I would go with craftsmen, husky, etc. that have a lifetime warranty for sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. as for power tools the brands I like are Milwaukee, makita, dewalt, in that order just to name a few. never owned a bad Milwaukee tool, the others seem to make good and not so good lines so I buy the better (more expensive) ones.

now if your tearing down a wall and building a wall, you’ll need a good framers hammer. I’d go at least 20 oz. (26-32 is best but what ever your comfortable with) steel handle is my preference. Erwin I believe is the brand I own, but there are many good brands. a good pry bar or three big, med, small. a 12-14″ flat bar is a must, start there. A saws-all (hint: Milwaukee invented the saws-all) with a variety of blades, all purpose and a metal/hacksaw type, for starters. with those three tools you can tear down a house.

to build the wall you have the hammer. you’ll need a good circular saw, I love my makita! 99-110$ would own no other! A combination/framers blade, and a good finish blade (32-64 teeth) if your going to cut plywood or other finish wood. A framers/carpenters square, not a framing square unless your building stairs. A plumb bob and a good level (all levels need to be checked for accuracy, buying an expensive one doesn’t work here) check each bubble on a level/plumb surface and flip the level 180 deg. end to end and check again. you should get the same reading then turn it over and repeat. check all bubbles. nails I four building a single wall but an air nailer if you finishing a basement. drywall screw gun, utility knife, drywall square, 5″, 8″, 14″ taping knife, stainless steel mud pan, 18 volt cordless drill, corded drill-with 1/2″ chuck, mud mixer, orbital palm sander, belt sander, mini-rotary cutter “dremmel”, just to name a few.

17 years as GM mechanic, 7 years as building contractor, 3 years home inspector, have bought over $40,000 worth of personal tools. I’ve only scratched the surface so far, contact me if you want more specific info. I could go on for days…… wife hates any tool sales place, but she loves my repairs!

gidge980 asked What is the best way to install composite decking?

I am installing VERANDA composite decking and bought the recommended composite screws. I am finding it extremely difficult to install these screws, even when drilling pilot holes (which I really don’t want to do for every hole – this is a large deck). The product info says there is no pre-drilling required, but I’m not finding that to be true. Does anyone have any tips for me to make this a little easier and less time consuming? I’m using a Black and Decker drill/screwdriver.

And got the following answer:

There are many ways to install this type of decking today. But rather than pre-drilling I am going to list several ways that are gaining popularity. But you need to check with your building inspector as just because these ways have been proven to be a success, they must still be written into local building code and passed into law. That is something done about every 5 years.

First buy a good Screw/Decking gun if your deck it that big. It will be worth the money. Even for the home novice I use this one myself

DeWalt Heavy-Duty 18V Cordless Drywall/Deck Screwdriver Kit
You can even rent one.

Buy self drilling stainless steel screws. These have a drill bit forged on the tip of every screw. You will need to go to a real lumber yard for these as home centers (Home Depot, Lowes) are behind in technology.

The next 2 ways are gaining popularity because there are no screw holes on the top of the boards

Buy or rent a a slot cutter and cut a slot in the side of the deck board. Now use a plastic wafer to push into the slot s of 2 adjacent boards and a special screw goes through a hole in the wafer.

Rent a pneumatic finished nail gun. Buy some stailless steel finishing nails for this gun. And buy caulking tubes of 3M Marine 5200 Sealant. (No other sealant is approved for this usage)

Put a bead of sealant down, put the deck board in place and shoot 2 finish nails into it to hold it in place until the sealant completly cures. (2 to 3 weeks)

What you get will be no screws on the top of your deck showing and a deck that of the all the methods is the strongest. The only down side is that once the sealant cured this deck can not be taken apart with out destroying it.


Rob asked I want to buy a finish nailer gun, what should I get?

…for installing pre-hung doors(needs to fire 2 1/2 finish nails and 1 1/4 finish nails) and for installing moulding(crown moulding and baseboards). What is 16-guage, 18-gauge, etc…? Also, should I get a nailer that uses a compressor or DC current(cordless)?

And got the following answer:
I’ve been using bostitch products for 30 years without a problem.Look at different sellers for a deal,I just bought a new pancake compressor and got a 2 in. nailer free at Lowes.Go with compressed air,air tools last forever with simple care,plus you can use the compressor for other things as well.

Brandon asked What is the better finish nail gun on the market?

I am looking to buy a finish nail gun soon, but am not sure what brands to consider. What is the better brand to buy?

And got the following answer:

Are you looking for pneumatic or cordless? For cordless, the best one is made by Paslode. they are available in 16 gauge angled, 16 gauge straight, or 18 gauge straight. For pneumatic, Senco makes nice guns, as do Porter-Cable and Paslode. Hope this helps.

JFalcon asked What definitive set of power tools should a person purchase for the purpose of home upgrades and repairs?

As a fairly new homeowner, I’m finding lots of little things that need to be done. Minor repairs to the garage door, minor soffit and fascia damage, repairing doors and drywall, etc. I like to have the best tool for the job, but when it comes to cutting or finishing, there are several tools more adapted for a particular job. If one were to have the perfect “toolbox” (or perhaps toy box) with practical (not highly specialized) tools, what should it contain?
Well, I did specify power tools, but I suppose that mentioning other tools is fine as well. I already have a hammer, measuring tape, cordless drill and a fairly complete socket wrench set. What’s interesting is that ‘drill’ was mentioned more than once; aside from drilling holes, I assume that others use theirs for planting screws?

I will definitely need to cut wood, but don’t know if I necessarily need a table saw. I did like the suggestion of a reciprocating saw. For those who are suggesting tools, could you please also note what types of modifications and/or repairs for which they are most useful? Many thanks!

And got the following answer:

Since you already have a cordless drill, I’d suggest (more or less in this order):

A handheld circular saw (sometimes called a Skil saw, but Dewalt and Porter-Cable make better basic ones than Skil). A reciprocating saw is good for demolition and rough work, but not for precise, clean cuts–I’d get that only when you have a job for it. But do get a hand held jig saw (sabre saw)–Bosch, Porter-Cable and DeWalt make good ones. A compound miter saw is nice if you are doing any trim at all–DeWalt’s 12″ model is a real workhorse, right around $300, but a 10″ saw can be had for much less.

I also have a spiral saw that I use for drywall cutouts, a router that I constantly find new uses for, a random orbit sander that I can’t live without, and a 4″ belt sander I’ve used on every remodel job I’ve had since I bought it. Mine are all Porter-Cable.

If you can afford it, a small air compressor with 18 gauge and 15 gauge finish nail guns is great–if you can only have one finish nailer, I’d say 16 g. The compressor can also be used with a paint sprayer, tire inflater, air hammer, etc.

James B asked Do I only have to use paslode 16Gauge nails in my paslode model 902000 or can I use othe competitors nails?

I have a paslode model 902000 cordless nail gun. It uses 16 guage straight finnishing nails.

And got the following answer:

You can use any brand, they just need to have the same angle and the same type of head-cut (if any). Since you have a finishing gun you may not have an angle or a head cut though, so yours are most likely fairly generic.

Many of the brands of nails have a list of make and model guns that they will work in printed right on the box.

Aaron asked want a cordless finish nailer, how difficult to use?

looking at a dewalt 18volt 16 gauge finish nailer is it easily used and how well do the nails hold and do they look acceptable for finish work, and how often do they have problems like jamming etc. thanks.

And got the following answer:

They are easy to use and usually convenient. All nail guns can jam. The cordless finish nailers work pretty well. The framing nailers are too slow, in my opinion, for any big job (sheathing especially).

If you think you might someday want a framing gun, roofing gun, brad nailer, pinner, stapler, air sander, drill, sprayer, etc, etc, I’d recommend a compressor. For about the same cost as that cordless gun, you could get the kit from Porter-Cable that has a pancake compressor, 16g finish, 18g brad, and narrow crown stapler. And then you have the option of adding many other tools.

knightrider235 asked The best cordless nail gun?

My husband wants a Cordless Nail gun for Christmas and I need to know what the best kind is. Any suggestions?
He’s a Finish Carpenter, he said it is for Pick up work.

And got the following answer:

If he is a finish carpenter, he would love the 18v Dewalt trim nailer 16 gauge. I bought one a year ago and it is awesome for pick up work.

longines99 asked What are the most common types of nail gun nails used on a jobsite?

And got the following answer:

I highly recommend Paslode. They have cordless models that work with a small on board butane cylinder and rechargeable battery. You do not need an air compressor, and you aren’t hooked up to hoses.

They come in framing and finish sizes, and can be had at Home Depot for about $350 each.

When I was working Hurricane Katrina duty in Mississippi, most of the contractors were using the Paslode to build ramps, decks, etc. If they can stand up to that abuse, they are pretty good.