Nail Gun Buying Guide

Nail Gun Buying Guide

Industry’s Best Pneumatic Framing Nailers by Mallory Kramer

For many craftsmen, a pneumatic framing nailer is one of the greatest tools in the world. Making quick work of jobs that can take what feels like forever, and doing it with professional strength and precision, these nailers are an irreplaceable asset. If you’re in the market for one of the best framing nailers in the pneumatic world, well, you’re in luck. The following is a compiled, compacted set of reviews of the best framing nailers, and their prices, on the market today.

Hitachi’s NR83A2 framing nailer is one of the most high-quality, high-performance pneumatic framers on the market today. Weighing only 7.9 lbs the tool is clearly lightweight and the tool is extremely well balanced for the most comfortable operation and maneuverability. The framer has a tool-less depth adjustment allowing craftsmen to choose their depth of drive, and with an open nose design, extracting a jammed nail is hardly a hassle. The framer also features selective actuation, a favorite feature of most users, which allow craftsmen to simply transition from single actuation to contact actuation for the greatest versatility through a variety of applications. The tool is strong, fast, and versatile, and because it’s also so lightweight and well-balanced, continuous work and awkward applications are far less strenuous. Ultimately, the NR83A2 is a seriously tough framer built for durability on the jobsite and for reliability through the most heavy-duty applications. Lastly,pricing from about 0 – 0, Hitachi’s framer is a bit spendy, but is worth every penny. (Note: This tool is also available as a sequential trigger gun (NR83A2S) for just about 0.)

On another hand, Porter-Cable’s FR350A 3-1/2″ roundhead framing nailer is one of the more heavy-duty pneumatic framing tools on the market today. With the power to drive nails up to 3-1/2″ x 131″ into engineered lumber, the tool has intense power. The framer’s compact body design contributes to its well-balance and overall smooth style while an internal piston catch mechanism ensures each shot is consistently powerful. A selectable trigger transitions modes between restrictive or contact actuation mode, and with a tool-free adjustable depth-of-drive, craftsmen have complete control over the tool’s performance. The tool is simple to reload, and a nail lockout mechanism alerts you when its time to reload your tool. Keeping your materials protected during work, the framer also has a (tool-free, adjustable) exhaust and a (removable) non-marring nose tip, and also having on-tool storage, the FR350AR is endlessly convenient. Ranging in price from about 0 – 0, the framer is abrilliant tool at a certainly reasonable price.

The FR350A is also available reconditioned (FR350AR) for just about 0. As a reconditioned tool, this nailer presents a truly superior value to craftsmen and builders. For those unfamiliar with recons, they are an extremely great value that bring craftsmen the highest-performance tools at a tiny fraction of regular cost. Reconditioned tools, for some minor cosmetic or technical defect, have been returned to the manufacturer. There, they undergo a series of stringent tests and retests and restoration processes before being re-released with an “R” trailing the model number. This little “R” (and potentially hundreds of dollars) is truly the only difference between a brand new tool and a recon. The value with reconditioned tools is a no-brainer; when they are available, buy them.

Like Hitachi and Porter-Cable, Senco is known for building some of the best pneumatic tools and nailers in the industry. With well-seasoned experience and superior craftsmanship, Senco is an steadfast contender in the world of pneumatics. Pricing from about 0 – 0, their SN902XP framing nailer is a brilliant and saucy little tool with 904 in/lbs of power in a compact, 7.3 lb package. This round head framer is also built with a innovated design that requires up to fifteen-percent less air than other comparable models, and still having the power to drive 2 – 3-1/4″ (round head plastic collated) framing nails with fast efficiency, the nailer perfectly unites precision power and lightweight convenience. The nailer also drives 2″-3-1/2″ smooth shank nails and 2″-3″ ring shank nails. The tool’s compact design also contributes to its ability to work in tight spaces in between studs and joists, and its overall balance and ease of operation. Additionally, the gun is easy to transition from rapid fire to sequential fire and is simple to load and unload for optimal convenience on the job. The SN902XP is ideal for a huge number of applications from framing, fencing and subfloors, to trusses and decking. It additionally has a patented TrueDrive magazine to prevent jamming and an adjustable depth of drive for unfailing precision with every shot. Like the above Porter-Cable nailer, Senco’s SN902XP is also available reconditioned (if you can find it) for about 0.

In the end and whatever your needs may be, one of these nailers is certain to be an ideal framer. With big power, acute precision, and the accountability of a time-honored manufacturer, these pneumatic framing nailers are the best of the best.

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Drywall Screw Gun, Palm Sized By Alfredo Jeffrey Mercado on March 12, 2011 0

These could frequently be badly balanced and hard to utilize. Many businesses at the instant are production expert regular building work resources which are now not compromising build quality however are benefiting from the latest in lightweight technologies. The outcome is a variety of tools, which will often include a palm dimension drywall screw gun, which are as robust as their heavier predecessors but much simpler to utilize. A lot study has long past into the style of the contemporary resources both from a technical and ergonomic viewpoint. Another element of a minimum of one palm size drywall screw gun is actually a nostril piece that will maintain its depth setting. This indicates that if you should need to alter the nostril piece for any cause, you can exchange it without having having to move through all the hard resetting and adjusting. The depth settings are particularly important for drywall function since the screws must be arranged beneath the surface from the board but the screwing motion must stop before damage is done to the paper of the drywall. If time isn’t spent within the establishing from the nostril piece then you will discover your self investing extra time in placing points correct. With those screw weapons you can get rid of the nostril piece without interfering with those settings. This will ensure that you can swap between jobs with ease.

The new breed of construction resources are continuously turning out to be lighter that is, in flip, making them a lot much more easy to use. The palm size drywall screw gun is constructed from materials that have gone through a lot of study and research so that you simply can discover the lightest options possible while still conserving the strength needed for large usage.

Not just the palm size drywall screw gun, but the whole range of contemporary tools has taken a action within the right direction with regards to effectiveness, security and relieve of use.

three Greatest Corded Drywall Screw-Weapons

Fortunately for these difficult toolers, Dewalt, Makita, and Milwaukee every offer a corded drywall screw-gun that rises above the competitors with heavy-obligation energy and always excessive-performance. Exemplifying the really greatest in the business, those corded screw-guns make sure superior overall performance and always excellent results.

To start, Dewalt’s DW276 all-function screw-gun is among the most amazing tools in at present’s industry boasting all the features that make a screw-gun this sort of a necessary instrument. With a whopping 6.five amp variable rate, reversing motor, the tool has the higher torque and big power to master every industrial job. While still weighing only three.six lbs, the device is built with heavy-obligation helical-minimize metal for serious durability, and with warmth-treated gears to make sure a surplus of lengthy years and exceptional overall performance. The device’s higher torque is perfect for heavy- duty applications like deck constructing and heavy gauge metal stud framing, and having a metal gear housing, the device boasts stable durability while ultimate ergonomically comfy and simple to utilize. On another hand, Makita’s 6827 (variable rate, reversible) screwdriver is one large, high- performance, excessive-high quality drill with functions, like a powerful motor and big torque, to trap even the most thoroughbred craftsmen. Mentioned snatch mechanism is created for that such a lot exact and powerful torque, and that includes a silent synchronized pin grab that is both ultra quiet and works to reduce wear, the weapon is certainly long lasting. Positive-Lock level changes provide consistent screw level environment, and, about the inside, the instrument’s warmth handled, system reduce gears provide efficient energy switch and super clean operation. Designed with comfortable style and with a lightweight solid aluminum gear housing, the tool is durable while still offering consolation and controlability. One of the really best drills within the business, Makita’s 6827 is actually a tool you’ll by no means regret adding to your device repertoire.

Furthermore, the device has a ramp-off depth locater for simple and accurate level adjustments, and simply because the device is corded you can be certain it’s energy and capacities will by no means be sub-par. The screwdriver is perfect for software from tough to minimum use; however, nevertheless you utilize the tool, it’ll unquestionably be kicking for any healthy lengthy time. Milwaukee builds a few of the greatest corded drills in the business, and also the 6740-20 is really a shining instance of their long lasting, excessive-performance regular.

With any of these heavy-duty drywall screw-guns craftsmen are sure to appreciate a excellent working experience, and certain to achieve always precise, professional outcomes.

Nailing Or Screwing Drywall

Nails as opposed to screws who will become the winner. While drywall very first arrived out the installers utilized everything from normal metal coil nails to galvanized roofing nails. After a brief amount of your time they began to develop main difficulties from nails coming out from the finished drywall.

Nail popping results when the nail is driven into moist lumber and since the lumber shrinks the house settles and nail can actually come out to the walls. How much the nail might actually pop out was determined by way of how much it used to be driven in to the framing studs or ceiling joists. This labored excellent but those nails were hard to generate in and may often break.

Those new nails worked excellent and experienced good holding energy and eliminated a whole lot of nail popping.

Using coil nails means driving them in with a hammer. If you omit the nail you damage the drywall. This appeared to be a large issue and was practically eliminated with the screws.

Nicely fairly quickly people began utilizing screws which experienced greater retaining energy and pretty a lot nail popping. This means much less exertions setting up and ending the drywall.

There’s one issue using the screws and that is they need to be arranged perfectly. They can no longer holiday the paper surface area on the drywall but have to be set enough into the drywall to ensure that it can be finished properly. Such a lot screw weapons have an adjustable setting used to obtain just the correct depth for the screws set up within the drywall. That doesn’t imply the coil nails just obtained screwed or even the screws simply got nailed.

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Tips for Using a Finish Nailer

A finish nailer is a perfect addition to your arsenal of power tools. However, like other power tools in your shop, you need to know how to effectively and s…

Ka asked What types of aquarium plants are these?

I know the plant on the far right is a java fern, but I’m not sure of what the other two plants are. Can someone please identify these plants for me? Thanks!
Thank you SO much everyone!!

And got the following answer:

Jeron and Jimmy are right. The plant to the left still often goes by the trade name of Anacharis, though it also goes by American or Canadian water weed or pond weed. The appropriate scientific name is Elodea canadensis. Even though we know it is just a popular name, a lot of us still use Anacharis.

That needs the most light of any of your plants. Move the stalks to the middle of the aquarium & spread them out a little where your light can do more for them. Both the intensity of the light & duration of the light (hours) are important in terms of plant health. If your gravel is deep enough, separate the stalks, wiggle a hole with your finger, insert the stalk & gently fill in the hole.

That water weed is even an invasive pest in the wild, so it seems to be pretty hardy. I’ve noticed that it needs at least 2 watts per gallon lighting & the light should be on for 13-14 hours a day (sort of like May-June-July when, given any water, plants grow like crazy). With less light it will get spindly and maybe disappear.

By the way, if you get too many of a plant, swap or sell them to other aquarists or an independent pet shop. Never release a plant or fish from an aquarium into the wild. Beside it being against the law almost everywhere, we don’t need exotics (eliminating the natives) and their diseases all over the place.

It also looks like there is a lead weight around the Anacharis. If the water’s pH drops towards under 7 that lead can begin to dissolve into the water. Sometimes a weight is useful, but we don’t want that stuff in our tanks any more than we want it in our drinking water.

Your Vallisneria doesn’t need quite as much light as the Elodea. Given adequate light, some nutrient providing fish and faithful water changes it is a pretty fast grower, reaching up to the surface. Further more, like strawberry plants in a garden (or Cryptocorynes in aquariums) they reproduce vegetatively by sending out runners. A new plant with develop every 2 or 3 inches. They can be guided along the tank back or sides or replanted, again making a hole and covering their roots.

Some newer aquarists will sometimes shove a plant into the gravel, cutting up their roots pretty badly. Imagine planting a garden by shooting young plants into the ground with a nail gun. 😉

Java ferns are amazing, gorwing in a variety of light intensities. Under pretty good light, something close to weekly partial water changes (after gravel vacuuming part of the tank bottoms) adding treated water of the same temperature, left out over night to shed noxious gases in the tap water & absorb a little oxygen, they can thrive. A fern the size of yours can grow to fill a 5, 10 or even 20-gallon aquarium in a couple of years. They also reproduce vegetatively, budding new ferns on their leaves. If is hard to see if that is happening with yours, but it may be doing that on the upper right hand side of the plant. (Keep even ragged pieces of leaves. Their condition sometimes seems to stimulating more budding of new plants.)

You evidently like very light hued gravel. If you ever want to change it, go for quite dark colors. You will find that your fish may be more comfortable and will show stronger, more intense colors.

Your’s looks like a recently set-up aquarium. Do use a 3 in 1 test kit (for ammonia, nitrites & nitrates) to see how your nitrogen cycle is developing, especially over that crucial first month or two.

In time your plants should multiply. You may also wish to buy more. As you shop for bunch plants, look for those that are already growing roots. Their survival potential is much greater than with un-rooted cuttings.

Good luck & all the best!

☢T0XIK9☢ asked very realistic M1911A1 gbb airsoft pistol?

my friends son saw my colt and wants one so i fiigured i’d get him 1 for his birthday. gas blowback is most realistic and thats what i’m aiming for. propane is reccomended but any gas is fine too.. i saw the kwa one but the orange tip is HUGE. any suggestions?

And got the following answer:

All airsoft 1911s will be sold with a similarly sized airsoft tip, theres no way of getting around this. Thank the feds and stupid, irresponsible gun flaunting rednecks for these laws. You can get rid of the tip with nail polish remover, but the color would be silver underneath, so many players remove the paint on the entire slide to have a silver slide/black frame kinda thing.

KWA is the best company, especially their NS2 system. Coming in a close second would be Tokya Marui Pistols, plastic but very realistic, crisp blowback and even some kick. Get one of these two companies and remember that all pistols are sold with a large orange tip.

Actually there is a way to circumvent orange tips, but it costs a small fortune. You would need to get a Tokyo Marui M1911 and install the following parts (from a future to buy list of mine):

nineball 6.03mm inner barrel 45.00
nineball gbb dyna piston head 14.00
king arms hop up rubber 12.99
guarder 1911 springfield mbk 150.00
guarder steel spring guide and cap for 1911 26.99
guarder 1911 loading muzzle 24.00
guarder 1911 steel bushing 15.00
guarder 1911 steel outer barrel 45.00
guarder tm gm 1911 150% spring kit 12.99

The metal body kit will make the gun look and feel 100% realistic. Throw on some classic wood grips or custom grips and nobody can tell the difference from your colt unless the closely examined it. Plus, there is no orange tip or silver slide to deal with.

In summary though, KWA of Tokyo Marui, there isn’t anything you can do about the tip, just remove it with nail polish remover when you get the chance.

Madden asked What all will I need to raise a Bearded Dragon?

Well, It’s my 18th Birthday and I have been wanting one for years. My mom said she was fine with it, but it was my responsibility to take care of it and find out what it needs.

What all will I need? and any kind of guide is helpful.

And got the following answer:

First of all, you need this website:

You will learn everything you need there.

Secondly, DO NOT LISTEN TO ADVICE FROM THE PET STORE!! They don’t know squat about caring for exotics, so make sure you know everything you need before you go, and don’t let them talk you out of something you know to be true. That’s why you need the above website!

Here is a basic list:

20g tank minimum. You’ll need at least a 40g breeder when he’s grown, so you may want to go ahead and get the bigger one. You can block off part of it if he seems intimidated by the size.

Solid substrate for the bottom – Repticarpet, paper towels, non-adhesive shelf liner, or my favorite, tiles. Tiles are great. You only have to buy them once. They are super easy to clean and disinfect. They come in a lot of colors and styles so you can customize your look. They also help keep beardie’s nails filed down. Sand, especially calcium sand, or any other particle substrate poses an impaction risk and should not be used for a dragon under one year old. And at that point, washed childrens playsand is the only safe option. Please consider these cons about sand before you make a final decision, though.

*possible impaction risk
*have to keep buying it
*hard to dump out for tank cleaning
*impossible to disinfect (it’s important to disinfect any surface your dragon has pooped on because they do carry salmonella)
**Absorbs moisture from poop, so that fecal bacteria is left behind even after you scoop out the solid waste. You dragon walks through this fecal matter and spreads it about his cage. He ends up living in what is basically a litter box.
**The left behind fecal bacteria can cause an increased risk of parasites

Thermometer – A temp gun or digital indoor/outdoor therm with a probe on a wire. The stick on type are useless, and it’s important that you accurately monitor your temps. The probe goes directly on the basking spot, and this temp should be 100-110. The cool side should stay around 80.

Heat bulb and fixture – Lowes and Wal Mart both have metal dome work light fixtures. These work great. The bulb can be just a regular household bulb. You might need to try different wattages to see which one gives you the temps you need. Usually a 75W or 100W will do.

UVB bulb and fixture – AVOID THE COMPACT COIL. Linear fluorescents provide the best UVB (besides MVB bulbs, but you can learn about that on and REPTISUN 10.0 (not ReptiGLO) is the best fluor bulb on the US market. You can get the fixture at Lowes or Wal Mart for a reasonable price. Make sure the fixture does not have a glass or plastic shield over the light. Glass and plastic both completely filter UVB. The bulbs are way cheaper if you order them online from somewhere like Pet Mountain.

Then you’ll want some cage furniture, a basking rock or log, a hide if you like (although a hide isn’t really necessary), some fake greenery to make it pretty. You might want to consider something to enclose 3 sides of your tank. Some beardies freak out about all the visibility, but some don’t seem to notice. I used fake bamboo blinds to do this and it looked great.

You’ll need a plan for your live feeders. Again, way cheaper to buy in bulk online than a few at a time at the pet store (and healthier too, no doubt). A 20 qt or bigger plastic tub does nicely. Cut a hole in the lid and hot glue or duct tape some screen on top for ventilation. You can learn all you need about caring for your crix at, and you can also learn about other feeders.

Here’s a good website to tell you which veggies are good for your dragon:…

Okay, just as important, I will give you a list of things NOT to get, no matter what the pet store tells you!

*calcium sand
*crushed walnut shells
*any substrate that has particles
*stick on thermometers
*crickets bigger than the space between his eyes
*compact coil UVB bulbs
*heat pad
*blue or red night light

Best of luck!

jninny asked Has anyone had photos block mounted?

I have had some expensive photos printed and cant really afford to have them proffessionally framed. I am wondering if blockmounting would be a cheaper and just as effective option? Can the photos be UV protected? And does it look good?

And got the following answer:

You can do it yourself. I do it all the time. But, if they were expensive you’re risking things because it’ll be your first time. You would need to practice it and perfect your technique before attempting the pricey stuff.
Buy some “black” foam core (frame stores, art stores, etc.). Cut foam core slightly larger than photo. Put “spray” adhesive on back of photo. Carefully lay picture onto cut foam core and press into place. Using a “metal” straight edge as a guide, and a “new” Exacto Knife, cut along the edges with the knife slanted in under the photo at about a 45 degree angle. This should be done in one smooth cut on each side. Be careful pressing the straight edge onto the photo while cutting because it will leave an indentation otherwise.
Buy some 1″ X 1″ wood stripes. Cut 4 pieces about 2″ shorter than the length of each side of the photo. Using a Hot Glue Gun, fasten these wood pieces onto the back of the foam core, about an inch “inside” the edge and along the edges. You’ll end up with four wood stripes along the four edges. And, walla, you’re done. The wood, not only sets the photo “out” from the wall, which looks great, but prevents the picture from warping.
Put a hook or nail in the wall and just hang the photo there using one of the glued on wood strips “over” the nail.
It works great, and is far, far cheaper than having them professionally mounted. The only problem is that this method is NOT as good as having them hot-mounted as is done professionally, and will not, therefore, last as long.
They cannot be UV protected, even under glass. It is better NOT to expose them to direct sunlight. The print dyes or inks cannot withstand exposure to sun.