Nail Gun Without Compressor

HowStuffWorks "Pneumatic Nail Guns"

Industry’s Best Pneumatic Framing Nailers by Mallory Kramer

For many craftsmen, a pneumatic framing nailer is one of the greatest tools in the world. Making quick work of jobs that can take what feels like forever, and doing it with professional strength and precision, these nailers are an irreplaceable asset. If you’re in the market for one of the best framing nailers in the pneumatic world, well, you’re in luck. The following is a compiled, compacted set of reviews of the best framing nailers, and their prices, on the market today.

Hitachi’s NR83A2 framing nailer is one of the most high-quality, high-performance pneumatic framers on the market today. Weighing only 7.9 lbs the tool is clearly lightweight and the tool is extremely well balanced for the most comfortable operation and maneuverability. The framer has a tool-less depth adjustment allowing craftsmen to choose their depth of drive, and with an open nose design, extracting a jammed nail is hardly a hassle. The framer also features selective actuation, a favorite feature of most users, which allow craftsmen to simply transition from single actuation to contact actuation for the greatest versatility through a variety of applications. The tool is strong, fast, and versatile, and because it’s also so lightweight and well-balanced, continuous work and awkward applications are far less strenuous. Ultimately, the NR83A2 is a seriously tough framer built for durability on the jobsite and for reliability through the most heavy-duty applications. Lastly,pricing from about 0 – 0, Hitachi’s framer is a bit spendy, but is worth every penny. (Note: This tool is also available as a sequential trigger gun (NR83A2S) for just about 0.)

On another hand, Porter-Cable’s FR350A 3-1/2″ roundhead framing nailer is one of the more heavy-duty pneumatic framing tools on the market today. With the power to drive nails up to 3-1/2″ x 131″ into engineered lumber, the tool has intense power. The framer’s compact body design contributes to its well-balance and overall smooth style while an internal piston catch mechanism ensures each shot is consistently powerful. A selectable trigger transitions modes between restrictive or contact actuation mode, and with a tool-free adjustable depth-of-drive, craftsmen have complete control over the tool’s performance. The tool is simple to reload, and a nail lockout mechanism alerts you when its time to reload your tool. Keeping your materials protected during work, the framer also has a (tool-free, adjustable) exhaust and a (removable) non-marring nose tip, and also having on-tool storage, the FR350AR is endlessly convenient. Ranging in price from about 0 – 0, the framer is abrilliant tool at a certainly reasonable price.

The FR350A is also available reconditioned (FR350AR) for just about 0. As a reconditioned tool, this nailer presents a truly superior value to craftsmen and builders. For those unfamiliar with recons, they are an extremely great value that bring craftsmen the highest-performance tools at a tiny fraction of regular cost. Reconditioned tools, for some minor cosmetic or technical defect, have been returned to the manufacturer. There, they undergo a series of stringent tests and retests and restoration processes before being re-released with an “R” trailing the model number. This little “R” (and potentially hundreds of dollars) is truly the only difference between a brand new tool and a recon. The value with reconditioned tools is a no-brainer; when they are available, buy them.

Like Hitachi and Porter-Cable, Senco is known for building some of the best pneumatic tools and nailers in the industry. With well-seasoned experience and superior craftsmanship, Senco is an steadfast contender in the world of pneumatics. Pricing from about 0 – 0, their SN902XP framing nailer is a brilliant and saucy little tool with 904 in/lbs of power in a compact, 7.3 lb package. This round head framer is also built with a innovated design that requires up to fifteen-percent less air than other comparable models, and still having the power to drive 2 – 3-1/4″ (round head plastic collated) framing nails with fast efficiency, the nailer perfectly unites precision power and lightweight convenience. The nailer also drives 2″-3-1/2″ smooth shank nails and 2″-3″ ring shank nails. The tool’s compact design also contributes to its ability to work in tight spaces in between studs and joists, and its overall balance and ease of operation. Additionally, the gun is easy to transition from rapid fire to sequential fire and is simple to load and unload for optimal convenience on the job. The SN902XP is ideal for a huge number of applications from framing, fencing and subfloors, to trusses and decking. It additionally has a patented TrueDrive magazine to prevent jamming and an adjustable depth of drive for unfailing precision with every shot. Like the above Porter-Cable nailer, Senco’s SN902XP is also available reconditioned (if you can find it) for about 0.

In the end and whatever your needs may be, one of these nailers is certain to be an ideal framer. With big power, acute precision, and the accountability of a time-honored manufacturer, these pneumatic framing nailers are the best of the best.

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Drywall Screw Gun, Palm Sized By Alfredo Jeffrey Mercado on March 12, 2011 0

These could frequently be badly balanced and hard to utilize. Many businesses at the instant are production expert regular building work resources which are now not compromising build quality however are benefiting from the latest in lightweight technologies. The outcome is a variety of tools, which will often include a palm dimension drywall screw gun, which are as robust as their heavier predecessors but much simpler to utilize. A lot study has long past into the style of the contemporary resources both from a technical and ergonomic viewpoint. Another element of a minimum of one palm size drywall screw gun is actually a nostril piece that will maintain its depth setting. This indicates that if you should need to alter the nostril piece for any cause, you can exchange it without having having to move through all the hard resetting and adjusting. The depth settings are particularly important for drywall function since the screws must be arranged beneath the surface from the board but the screwing motion must stop before damage is done to the paper of the drywall. If time isn’t spent within the establishing from the nostril piece then you will discover your self investing extra time in placing points correct. With those screw weapons you can get rid of the nostril piece without interfering with those settings. This will ensure that you can swap between jobs with ease.

The new breed of construction resources are continuously turning out to be lighter that is, in flip, making them a lot much more easy to use. The palm size drywall screw gun is constructed from materials that have gone through a lot of study and research so that you simply can discover the lightest options possible while still conserving the strength needed for large usage.

Not just the palm size drywall screw gun, but the whole range of contemporary tools has taken a action within the right direction with regards to effectiveness, security and relieve of use.

three Greatest Corded Drywall Screw-Weapons

Fortunately for these difficult toolers, Dewalt, Makita, and Milwaukee every offer a corded drywall screw-gun that rises above the competitors with heavy-obligation energy and always excessive-performance. Exemplifying the really greatest in the business, those corded screw-guns make sure superior overall performance and always excellent results.

To start, Dewalt’s DW276 all-function screw-gun is among the most amazing tools in at present’s industry boasting all the features that make a screw-gun this sort of a necessary instrument. With a whopping 6.five amp variable rate, reversing motor, the tool has the higher torque and big power to master every industrial job. While still weighing only three.six lbs, the device is built with heavy-obligation helical-minimize metal for serious durability, and with warmth-treated gears to make sure a surplus of lengthy years and exceptional overall performance. The device’s higher torque is perfect for heavy- duty applications like deck constructing and heavy gauge metal stud framing, and having a metal gear housing, the device boasts stable durability while ultimate ergonomically comfy and simple to utilize. On another hand, Makita’s 6827 (variable rate, reversible) screwdriver is one large, high- performance, excessive-high quality drill with functions, like a powerful motor and big torque, to trap even the most thoroughbred craftsmen. Mentioned snatch mechanism is created for that such a lot exact and powerful torque, and that includes a silent synchronized pin grab that is both ultra quiet and works to reduce wear, the weapon is certainly long lasting. Positive-Lock level changes provide consistent screw level environment, and, about the inside, the instrument’s warmth handled, system reduce gears provide efficient energy switch and super clean operation. Designed with comfortable style and with a lightweight solid aluminum gear housing, the tool is durable while still offering consolation and controlability. One of the really best drills within the business, Makita’s 6827 is actually a tool you’ll by no means regret adding to your device repertoire.

Furthermore, the device has a ramp-off depth locater for simple and accurate level adjustments, and simply because the device is corded you can be certain it’s energy and capacities will by no means be sub-par. The screwdriver is perfect for software from tough to minimum use; however, nevertheless you utilize the tool, it’ll unquestionably be kicking for any healthy lengthy time. Milwaukee builds a few of the greatest corded drills in the business, and also the 6740-20 is really a shining instance of their long lasting, excessive-performance regular.

With any of these heavy-duty drywall screw-guns craftsmen are sure to appreciate a excellent working experience, and certain to achieve always precise, professional outcomes.

Nailing Or Screwing Drywall

Nails as opposed to screws who will become the winner. While drywall very first arrived out the installers utilized everything from normal metal coil nails to galvanized roofing nails. After a brief amount of your time they began to develop main difficulties from nails coming out from the finished drywall.

Nail popping results when the nail is driven into moist lumber and since the lumber shrinks the house settles and nail can actually come out to the walls. How much the nail might actually pop out was determined by way of how much it used to be driven in to the framing studs or ceiling joists. This labored excellent but those nails were hard to generate in and may often break.

Those new nails worked excellent and experienced good holding energy and eliminated a whole lot of nail popping.

Using coil nails means driving them in with a hammer. If you omit the nail you damage the drywall. This appeared to be a large issue and was practically eliminated with the screws.

Nicely fairly quickly people began utilizing screws which experienced greater retaining energy and pretty a lot nail popping. This means much less exertions setting up and ending the drywall.

There’s one issue using the screws and that is they need to be arranged perfectly. They can no longer holiday the paper surface area on the drywall but have to be set enough into the drywall to ensure that it can be finished properly. Such a lot screw weapons have an adjustable setting used to obtain just the correct depth for the screws set up within the drywall. That doesn’t imply the coil nails just obtained screwed or even the screws simply got nailed.

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MAKITA High Pressure Compressor & Pneumatic Nailers

Makita High Pressure dramatically increases air pressure delivered to pneumatic nailers. The result? More compact nailers with less weight, with more driving…

JFalcon asked What definitive set of power tools should a person purchase for the purpose of home upgrades and repairs?

As a fairly new homeowner, I’m finding lots of little things that need to be done. Minor repairs to the garage door, minor soffit and fascia damage, repairing doors and drywall, etc. I like to have the best tool for the job, but when it comes to cutting or finishing, there are several tools more adapted for a particular job. If one were to have the perfect “toolbox” (or perhaps toy box) with practical (not highly specialized) tools, what should it contain?
Well, I did specify power tools, but I suppose that mentioning other tools is fine as well. I already have a hammer, measuring tape, cordless drill and a fairly complete socket wrench set. What’s interesting is that ‘drill’ was mentioned more than once; aside from drilling holes, I assume that others use theirs for planting screws?

I will definitely need to cut wood, but don’t know if I necessarily need a table saw. I did like the suggestion of a reciprocating saw. For those who are suggesting tools, could you please also note what types of modifications and/or repairs for which they are most useful? Many thanks!

And got the following answer:

Since you already have a cordless drill, I’d suggest (more or less in this order):

A handheld circular saw (sometimes called a Skil saw, but Dewalt and Porter-Cable make better basic ones than Skil). A reciprocating saw is good for demolition and rough work, but not for precise, clean cuts–I’d get that only when you have a job for it. But do get a hand held jig saw (sabre saw)–Bosch, Porter-Cable and DeWalt make good ones. A compound miter saw is nice if you are doing any trim at all–DeWalt’s 12″ model is a real workhorse, right around $300, but a 10″ saw can be had for much less.

I also have a spiral saw that I use for drywall cutouts, a router that I constantly find new uses for, a random orbit sander that I can’t live without, and a 4″ belt sander I’ve used on every remodel job I’ve had since I bought it. Mine are all Porter-Cable.

If you can afford it, a small air compressor with 18 gauge and 15 gauge finish nail guns is great–if you can only have one finish nailer, I’d say 16 g. The compressor can also be used with a paint sprayer, tire inflater, air hammer, etc.

RXW asked Do I need a nailgun with or without a compressor?

Redoing moulding in my house – was told to get a nailgun with a compressor – is that necessary? seems like there are alot of nailguns without compressors these days?

And got the following answer:

I guess it all depends on if you have use for the compressor after you finish your job.

If you have use for the compressor I’d go with the air nailer, from what I’ve seen they are cheaper, and the nails are cheaper.

If you have no use for the compressor, I’d go with a cordless nailer, The Paslode Impulse nailer is an excellent gun to use, framed my basement and a few for some friends and it worked great.

You could also compare prices, air nailer and compressor VS, cordless, also might want to price nails and buy the one that best first your budget.

Good Luck

Rob asked I want to buy a finish nailer gun, what should I get?

…for installing pre-hung doors(needs to fire 2 1/2 finish nails and 1 1/4 finish nails) and for installing moulding(crown moulding and baseboards). What is 16-guage, 18-gauge, etc…? Also, should I get a nailer that uses a compressor or DC current(cordless)?

And got the following answer:
I’ve been using bostitch products for 30 years without a problem.Look at different sellers for a deal,I just bought a new pancake compressor and got a 2 in. nailer free at Lowes.Go with compressed air,air tools last forever with simple care,plus you can use the compressor for other things as well.

abrandolo asked Does anyone have any tips on installing a decorative chair rail?

Im redoing a bedroom as a play room for our son, and want to install a decorative chair rail to help break up the room & paint colors. How do I go about measuring for the amount of wood Ill need and what about the corners? Do they sell corner pieces? Anyone know if Home Depot will custom cut the wood for me? I appreciate your advice…Im new at this & am determined to complete this project on myown without my husbands help (he doesnt think I can do it!)

And got the following answer:

OHHH,This is going to need more than one page.Okay,Home Depot and any other harware store only carries stock trim,this is a material some artist decided would be the thing for the year.Decide on a design,it may take several peices to build it but with all the options out there it is posible to make your own.Just try a little of this and a smidg of that untill you find something you like.Now measure from the floor up, the heigth of the rail(usally 32-34 in.) Measure this in both corners of the wall,levels are nice if the floor is 100% level,but in fourteen yrs I’ve never seen that!The inside corners should be cut to an outside 45 deg. bevel,meaning the cut starts in the middle of the wood tapering towards the back.Outside corners get what is called an inside cut,the cut starts at the end of the board tapering in.If you use a corner block you will not miter you corners,but even a full peice should be cut square on both ends (factery’s are out for numbers not presision), this ensures a tight fit.With all your peices cut to size and you have done a dry fit time to nail them on,I use 18 guage brad nails min. 1 and a half long.If you do not own a compressor and brad gun get a smooth face narrow head hammer, something comfortable to you.DO NOT use glue,all work in your home should be treated as though it will be coming down next year,because it might be!Just use the proper nails and it will stay for a long time, as long as you find the studs.Each wall should be treated as though it is a full peice of trim,meaning one wall one 16 ft. peice of trim, if the wall is longer than that it counts as two or whatever.This will with luck provide you with more than enough trim for mess ups and to finish the room. Use sandable wood putty to fill the nail holes and the seams. There are a few CRAFTSMEN who still will make custom trim,but this a dying art and is very expensive,usally exceeding ten dollars a foot.I wish you the best of luck with practice you will be fine,just remember it takes yrs of practice to make a carpenter.Good Luck
The spell check is messed up excuse my spelling

Diane B asked What brand Framing Nail Gun should I get my husband for Xmas?

My husband wants a nail gun for Christmas–and he said it should be a framing nail gun. I will probably go to Home Depot but before I purchase all he needs I want to do some research. I’ve been reading online about different types, and I definitely will get a compressor with it as well, but don’t know what type to get on that either. He is a professional Handyman and really needs to upgrade from using a hammer all the time when he builds fences and other structures. Any ideas appreciated! I understand Hitachi is good?

And got the following answer:

The first thing to consider is how much framing he actually does. If he does a a lot of framing such as decks, new homes, basements, additions, an so on then I would recommend a coil framer. I prefer the Bostich where coils are concerned. If he does the occasional framing job such as the odd deck or basement then a stick framer will be sufficient. The Hitachi is O.K. but out of the stick nailers the Pasload is miles ahead. The Rigid would be my next choice. Both guns have plenty of power and will nail into LSL or LVL with no problems, much less dimensional lumber treated or otherwise.

If your husband only does framing on a rare occasion or does predominately fences the Pasload cordless framing nailer is the way to go. It costs a bit more to run and is to slow for production framing but for the occasional small framing job you can’t beat the ease of use and portability.

As far as compressors go again it will depend on the amount of framing as well as what other activities he does through the course of the day. If he does the odd framing job and a few trim jobs then he may get a way with a pancake style compressor. Porter Cable will work fine. If he does a lot of framing, door hanging, flooring, and trim running then he needs something with more power the D55146 by Dewalt will handle all of those jobs without any problems.

Of course if he only does the occasional of trim work as well and does not do flooring then you could go with either a Pasload cordless trim gun or any of the battery powered trim guns. I would recommend the Dewalt 18V cordless trim gun over both the Pasload and Rigid. The battery powered guns can be used in a production style setting.

Rob asked I want to buy a finish nailer gun, what should I get?

…for installing pre-hung doors(needs to fire 2 1/2 finish nails and 1 1/4 finish nails) and for installing moulding(crown moulding and baseboards). What is 16-guage, 18-gauge, etc…? Also, should I get a nailer that uses a compressor or DC current(cordless)?

And got the following answer:
I’ve been using bostitch products for 30 years without a problem.Look at different sellers for a deal,I just bought a new pancake compressor and got a 2 in. nailer free at Lowes.Go with compressed air,air tools last forever with simple care,plus you can use the compressor for other things as well.

texan_boilermaker asked What size aire compressor do I need for an air framing nailer as well as impact wrench?

What type of things do I need to look for when buying aportable air compressor? I will use it for trim work, framing and for car repairs (drill, wrench, impact wrench, grinding etc.) How many gallons? What PSI? What CFM @ PSI? What brand?

And got the following answer:

Well, youve covered the basics of what you need in your own question… how big of a storage tank do you need, what pressure can it attain and hold (psi) and cubic feet per minute (CFM).

For a trim nailer…. this is a relatively low CFM usage tool. Most trim nailers require only 60 PSI to operate…well within the operating range of most compact compressors… framing nailers require up to 90 PSI. Ive toted a Campbell Housfeld “torpedo” compressor for several years, and it has been more than sufficient for my nailing needs… it has a 2 gallon tank, with a 2.2 horsepower compressor, that runs off of 110v, at 15 amps peak. Ive had this compressor for several years, and have had no problems at all with it. I have had to trim the air line between the tank and gauge on one occasion, because it got kinked (a thin hard plastic tubing), and the copper supply line between the compressor and the tank, Ive also had to replace twice, because it was bent to the point it cracked, lol… rough handling. Both were easy fixes tho…other than that, my compressor has not required any maintenance at all, so I feel very good about recommending the Campbell Hausfeld Brand.
I mentioned the 15 amps peak… because there were times when I needed to run my compressor off of a voltage converter from my work vehicle… converting the “dc” to “ac” voltage. MOST of the smaller power converters, will NOT attain 15 amps… you need a fairly large power convertor to reach that. Check the stats on the convertor, if you decide to go shopping for one.. and make sure it can put out 15 amps.

Now, Over the years, Ive also used this same compressor, for such things as an air impact wrench, and even a hopper gun. These two items require much more CFM…. I found my little portable compressor was able to keep up, only in short bursts, that is, I had to work a little, wait a little.

So… Youve got a decision as to which is more important… ease of portability, or the ability to use larger CFM tools on a continuous basis. Perhaps one of the 5 gallon tanks, on wheels, would be a good compromise, Ive never used one that size. I do know that it has basically the same compressor on top of it, as the smaller tank compressors do.

Larger tool shops, garages and such, that need to use the larger CFM tools frequently, dont bother with a portable compressor, they buy a large 50 gallon tank, minimum, compressor, with a 2 stage compressor. The difference between a 2 stage and single stage (portable), is that the air is compressed, in literally, two steps… this makes it less work on the compressor. These units are also belt driven, as opposed to a direct drive …this makes the 2 stage compressor motors last longer….the belt absorbs a lot of the ‘shock’, or stress, if you will, of startup.

I recently changed a tire on my 3/4 ton van, with my portable air compressor, and impact wrench… I could break and remove each tire lug, in about 5 seconds… but had to wait about 20 seconds in between lugs… that doesnt sound like much… but if you were trying to do that all day.. it would become a major pain. Since I mainly used my compressor as a traveling warranty service tech… portability was my big concern… I needed something that took up a small space, and was easy to pick up and carry around. For my needs, this particular compressor is perfect. I do not have to remove too many tire lugs, heheheh. I did find tho, that when doing textured ceilings with my hopper gun…. I spent more time waiting for the compressor to gain enough CFM, than I did actually spraying.

Im no longer traveling now…so, I dont need to concern myself with doing ceilings, so, I am very seriously considering finding a big tank, to put in my garage, without a compressor… that I can use my portable to charge, when I need to run a grinder, or impact wrench…that might be something you would want to consider… if you do not need the large cfm tools in a portable setting… but you do need the portability for trim nailing, etc… then go with a smaller tank compressor, and buy a second air tank that will hold much more volume, at home. (Im currently looking at several used propane tanks…. 250 to 500 gallon range, hehehe)

Another good brand name is Porter Cable… they have a reputation for building high quality tools. Ive also heard good things about the large tank compressors sold at Lowes. Stanley/Bostich also makes some very nice portable compressors.

So, it boils down to this… do you need portability? or large CFM the most. This more than anything, will determine which type of air compressor you need. If you are using the air drill, impact wrench, and grinders, etc.. a LOT, at home… I would suggest you purchase a larger, stationary, 2-stage compressor for your shop. For portability, I would suggest a ‘torpedo’ compressor that will hold at least 2 gallons. I would actually advise against using a “pancake” compressor… its a little on the ‘too small’ side…Ive known roofing contractors who needed the much smaller pancake compressor to carry it up on the roof, but would use 2 of them, to keep up with the demand of the roofing nailer….I figure, if you have to tote two of them up… its just as much work, as toting one that will do the job by itself, lol.

One last tip…. If you decide to purchase a portable compressor, you’re better off running extra air hose, to reach your work area, than to run an extension cord. The compressor does need a full 15 amps…. extensions cords lose “xx” number of amps, over so many feet… so, to purchase an extension cord of any length… you have to goto extremely heavy guage wire… the end result is, that the extension cord costs more than air hose, and is harder on the electric motor, because of the drop in amps. While, using more air hose, is like adding a little extra volume to your tank…less work on your motor.

One other alternative I can think of… mount a large, normally stationary, tank, on your work vehicle, and run it off of a generator…this is probably the most expensive solution, but would give you true portability, with large CFM. You would also want several air hoses to be able to reach your work area… the benefits to this approach would be a longer lasting compressor motor… the larger CFM to run the other tools.. the generator would help supply power to other electrical items, if you are working in a location without power (perhaps a new home?, or changing a tire out on a highway?)….and… it would keep the noise outside, lol. When I used my portable inside… I would often put it in a room no one was using, and shut the door, running hoses to where I was working…made it much easier on the ears, hehehe.

Happy Shopping!

Mike asked Hammer or auto hammer, nail gun, etc. What do you prefer?

Doing research for a new product for construction workers and handymen. Do you prefer doing it the old fashioned way or do you like hammer substitutes? Why? Positives and Negatives? What do others think besides you? Are there other websites or forums that talk about this?

And got the following answer:

OK, I have no idea who Amanda got her array of answers from, but I will answer you from my experience. The best tool for installing blocking in a wall, and other tasks that require portability, is the Paslode cordless framing gun. It uses a fuel cell and a battery, and is convenient as heck, especially in places where an air hose can get in the way. The drawbacks to it are the price of the fuel cells and the fact that you can only load one stick of nails at a time, as opposed to 2 sticks at a time for air nailers. They also do not work when the temp is below about 10 degrees.

On the subject of air nailers, they also have their purpose. They are the fastest for framing purposes. As long as you have fuel or electricity for your compressor, you can run all day long with them. They can be more dangerous than a gas gun because most people have them set to shoot whenever the nose is presses (bump and shoot). For building wall flat on a deck, I like the air gun. Drawbacks are the hose and the fact that they will not draw 2 boards tightly together if there is a slight bow to one or both.

There are some places where you have to use a hammer and a nail. One is when you are trying to draw 2 boards tightly together. Sometimes you have to hand drive a toenail. A lot of guys use Estwing steel hammers, but a lot don’t. Estwings are terrible on the elbow if you do a lot of hand nailing. A hickory handled framing hammer (20-23 oz.) is the best way to go, but you WILL break handles. A good compromise is a fiberglass handled framing hammer. I have a Vaughan that I use a lot, and I also have a Stiletto that I haven’t really used much yet.

The only reason I would build without a gun is if I only had one or two walls to build, and didn’t feel like dragging out a gun and hose. Feel free to contact me if I can answer any other questions for you.

Twinx asked What do I need to buy to install an interior door?

And got the following answer:

Tools Needed to Hang Interior Doors
# A 2- or 4-foot level can be used to check the floor of the door opening and the top of the door jamb to see if they are level, while a 6-foot level is needed to check the sides of the door jamb for plumb.
# Hammers are useful for tapping in shims, driving nails, moving the door jamb in or out and removing or replacing hinge pins.
Nail Set
# Apart from counter-sinking nail heads, nail sets also can be used to remove hinge pins.
Utility Knife
# Utility knives are used to trim door shims that protrude beyond the door casing.
# Drills and/or screw drivers are used to install door locks and door hardware such as hinges. Drills are used to bore holes, if needed, through the door to install door handles.
Circular Saw
# Circular saws are used to cut off the bottom of the door casing in situations where one side of the door opening is higher than the other. Circular saws also can be used to trim the bottom of doors to provide clearance for flooring, such as carpet, or to allow for better airflow in buildings that only have one central air-conditioning return.
Miter Saw
# A power miter saw or hand saw and miter box will be used to cut the molding, if needed, for the door.
Tape Measure/Pencil
# A tape measure and pencil will come in handy for taking measurements and marking a variety of things form cut marks to layout lines.
Nail Gun/Compressor
# A pneumatic, gas or battery-powered nail gun will make the process easier and faster.
# Not technically a tool, shims are placed behind each hinge, at the top and bottom of both sides of the door, and behind the strike plate. The shims keep the door jamb from moving in and out with use. This keeps the door operating properly by preventing binding.
# Chisels from 1/4 inch to 1 inch in width are used to create mortises for hinges and strike plates. They are also used to deepen existing mortises.
Step Ladder
# A 4-foot step ladder is more than sufficient for anything you may need to do, such as create a mortise for the upper hinge on an 8-foot-tall door or install ball catches in the top of a door.

How to Install Interior Doors


Remove packing braces and nails from the interior door. Set the closed door in the rough opening, and center it. If the floor is uneven, you may need to carefully trim the appropriate edge from the lower doorjamb before you can install the door.

Use a level to vertically align the door. Guide with the hinged side of the door.

Put shims in place to make the door plumb. The shims go between the doorjamb and rough framing. Tap them in from both directions.

Nail through the doorjamb and the shims into the wall stud. Start at the top hinge. Use 8-penny finishing nails. Make sure all nails go through the shims behind the jamb.

Repeat this process for all the other hinges. Check the door’s alignment, then put shims and nails in the rest of the door. When you finish, the space between the door and the jamb should be equal all the way around.

Trim the shims carefully. Don’t cut the jamb or wall.

Cut the door’s trim. Miter the corners. Nail the trim every 16 inches. Use 4-penny finishing nails. Carefully set the nail heads without damaging the trim.

Finish the door. Install the doorknob. Most prehung doors come with the doorknob hole already cut. Finally, install the latch.