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Derek asked Leaking crack in foundation. What is the best sealant to use when you can’t keep the area dry?

There is a crack in the flooring of my house. It’s about 10 inches long and not more than a finger-nail thick. Unfortunately, water is coming up from below the foundation. We’ve already talked to a plumber, and he says it’s not a pipe. (We can’t stop the leak long enough to apply any sort of dry-only sealant to it. It’s also leaking pretty badly; roughly 10 minutes worth of mopping every hour.) It’s not so bad that we can see it gushing out, but it is nevertheless leaking a lot of water.

What do I need to do to stop this leak? Do you guys recommend any water-resistant sealants that can be applied to wet cement?

Any additional information I need to know would help a lot. Thanks for your time!


And got the following answer:

It is for sure a leaking pipe below the foundation. No way would water ever come up that high from ground water. You would have to have a pond in your yard that is near or at front door level.

That is a very difficult and costly repair to both locate and repair. What has happened is that plastic tubing below the cement has probably been kinked and formed a hole in it and it is pressureizing the soil below, thus the flow is out of the crack into the dwelling itself.

There is a special media, called iron Chloride that can be injected into the water pipe to locate the precise location of the hole in the pipe. An instrument similar to those used to find buried treasure is then used for the location.

After that a trench of concrete is then sawed about 3 feet long by a foot wide. The slab is removed and the crused pea gravel and dirt below also and the repair is made on the pipe itself.

Do not assume just because its coming out of that crack in the floor that the pipe leak is directly below. It is most like NOT and probably 5 or even 20 feet away from that crack.

Sorry to be a bearer of bad news but this water is from a pipe and not a wet ground conditon.

As a temporary relief, you can get a bundle of cedar shingles at Lowes and coat the ends with Polyurethane adhesive and drive those shingles sharp edge into the crack tightly sealing the crack, do this putting them close together. And breaking them off once driven into the crack. Those shingles will swell out something like wood on a boat and seal that crack.

Any sort of caulk gun or cement applied will immediately be forced out the crack due to the internal pressue of the water in the soil below, so dont waste time or money on that.

roman asked How can i make a stock for a paintball gun?

I want to make a stock for my paintball gun that wouldnt cost much and is made of household stuff, live pvc…..any ideas?

And got the following answer:

PVC would be a great idea. I would go to Home Depot, Lowes, or Osh and get pipes and pipe fittings (1/2″ size). The fittings will help you get the correct shape and size without having to glue, tape, nail, etc. Make sure you draw out a blueprint first so that you know what and how much of it you need. I’m not sure what type of gun you have so I don’t know how you could attach the stock. If the gun has holes for screws then you should have no problem, however, if it doesn’t I would recommend making a bracket that could fit around the back of the gun that you could attach the stock to. Good luck!

paul67337 asked How long would it take to shingle a 24 x 60 roof?

Single story, no vent caps or anything special. Just a 24 x 60 roof with an average or less than average slope. Just one person (me) with a nail gun. There is one layer of old shingles already on the roof, and they are 38 years old. Would it be alright to put the new shingles over the old?

Also, what would be a good nail gun to use? I would buy something from Lowe’s, and I can borrow an air compressor.

And got the following answer:

For starters I would remove the old shingles. My experience is that the new roof seems to wear out faster if laid over the top of other shingles. If this is the only roof you plan on doing then buy whatever cheap off brand nailer you can, it will do the job just fine. If working alone you should be able to re-roof w/tear-off in 3-5 days depending on how many hours per day you put in.