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Industry’s Best Pneumatic Framing Nailers by Mallory Kramer

For many craftsmen, a pneumatic framing nailer is one of the greatest tools in the world. Making quick work of jobs that can take what feels like forever, and doing it with professional strength and precision, these nailers are an irreplaceable asset. If you’re in the market for one of the best framing nailers in the pneumatic world, well, you’re in luck. The following is a compiled, compacted set of reviews of the best framing nailers, and their prices, on the market today.

Hitachi’s NR83A2 framing nailer is one of the most high-quality, high-performance pneumatic framers on the market today. Weighing only 7.9 lbs the tool is clearly lightweight and the tool is extremely well balanced for the most comfortable operation and maneuverability. The framer has a tool-less depth adjustment allowing craftsmen to choose their depth of drive, and with an open nose design, extracting a jammed nail is hardly a hassle. The framer also features selective actuation, a favorite feature of most users, which allow craftsmen to simply transition from single actuation to contact actuation for the greatest versatility through a variety of applications. The tool is strong, fast, and versatile, and because it’s also so lightweight and well-balanced, continuous work and awkward applications are far less strenuous. Ultimately, the NR83A2 is a seriously tough framer built for durability on the jobsite and for reliability through the most heavy-duty applications. Lastly,pricing from about 0 – 0, Hitachi’s framer is a bit spendy, but is worth every penny. (Note: This tool is also available as a sequential trigger gun (NR83A2S) for just about 0.)

On another hand, Porter-Cable’s FR350A 3-1/2″ roundhead framing nailer is one of the more heavy-duty pneumatic framing tools on the market today. With the power to drive nails up to 3-1/2″ x 131″ into engineered lumber, the tool has intense power. The framer’s compact body design contributes to its well-balance and overall smooth style while an internal piston catch mechanism ensures each shot is consistently powerful. A selectable trigger transitions modes between restrictive or contact actuation mode, and with a tool-free adjustable depth-of-drive, craftsmen have complete control over the tool’s performance. The tool is simple to reload, and a nail lockout mechanism alerts you when its time to reload your tool. Keeping your materials protected during work, the framer also has a (tool-free, adjustable) exhaust and a (removable) non-marring nose tip, and also having on-tool storage, the FR350AR is endlessly convenient. Ranging in price from about 0 – 0, the framer is abrilliant tool at a certainly reasonable price.

The FR350A is also available reconditioned (FR350AR) for just about 0. As a reconditioned tool, this nailer presents a truly superior value to craftsmen and builders. For those unfamiliar with recons, they are an extremely great value that bring craftsmen the highest-performance tools at a tiny fraction of regular cost. Reconditioned tools, for some minor cosmetic or technical defect, have been returned to the manufacturer. There, they undergo a series of stringent tests and retests and restoration processes before being re-released with an “R” trailing the model number. This little “R” (and potentially hundreds of dollars) is truly the only difference between a brand new tool and a recon. The value with reconditioned tools is a no-brainer; when they are available, buy them.

Like Hitachi and Porter-Cable, Senco is known for building some of the best pneumatic tools and nailers in the industry. With well-seasoned experience and superior craftsmanship, Senco is an steadfast contender in the world of pneumatics. Pricing from about 0 – 0, their SN902XP framing nailer is a brilliant and saucy little tool with 904 in/lbs of power in a compact, 7.3 lb package. This round head framer is also built with a innovated design that requires up to fifteen-percent less air than other comparable models, and still having the power to drive 2 – 3-1/4″ (round head plastic collated) framing nails with fast efficiency, the nailer perfectly unites precision power and lightweight convenience. The nailer also drives 2″-3-1/2″ smooth shank nails and 2″-3″ ring shank nails. The tool’s compact design also contributes to its ability to work in tight spaces in between studs and joists, and its overall balance and ease of operation. Additionally, the gun is easy to transition from rapid fire to sequential fire and is simple to load and unload for optimal convenience on the job. The SN902XP is ideal for a huge number of applications from framing, fencing and subfloors, to trusses and decking. It additionally has a patented TrueDrive magazine to prevent jamming and an adjustable depth of drive for unfailing precision with every shot. Like the above Porter-Cable nailer, Senco’s SN902XP is also available reconditioned (if you can find it) for about 0.

In the end and whatever your needs may be, one of these nailers is certain to be an ideal framer. With big power, acute precision, and the accountability of a time-honored manufacturer, these pneumatic framing nailers are the best of the best.

Original Source: http://www.articlecity.com/articles/home_improvement/article_4496.shtml


Drywall Screw Gun, Palm Sized By Alfredo Jeffrey Mercado on March 12, 2011 0

These could frequently be badly balanced and hard to utilize. Many businesses at the instant are production expert regular building work resources which are now not compromising build quality however are benefiting from the latest in lightweight technologies. The outcome is a variety of tools, which will often include a palm dimension drywall screw gun, which are as robust as their heavier predecessors but much simpler to utilize. A lot study has long past into the style of the contemporary resources both from a technical and ergonomic viewpoint. Another element of a minimum of one palm size drywall screw gun is actually a nostril piece that will maintain its depth setting. This indicates that if you should need to alter the nostril piece for any cause, you can exchange it without having having to move through all the hard resetting and adjusting. The depth settings are particularly important for drywall function since the screws must be arranged beneath the surface from the board but the screwing motion must stop before damage is done to the paper of the drywall. If time isn’t spent within the establishing from the nostril piece then you will discover your self investing extra time in placing points correct. With those screw weapons you can get rid of the nostril piece without interfering with those settings. This will ensure that you can swap between jobs with ease.

The new breed of construction resources are continuously turning out to be lighter that is, in flip, making them a lot much more easy to use. The palm size drywall screw gun is constructed from materials that have gone through a lot of study and research so that you simply can discover the lightest options possible while still conserving the strength needed for large usage.

Not just the palm size drywall screw gun, but the whole range of contemporary tools has taken a action within the right direction with regards to effectiveness, security and relieve of use.

three Greatest Corded Drywall Screw-Weapons

Fortunately for these difficult toolers, Dewalt, Makita, and Milwaukee every offer a corded drywall screw-gun that rises above the competitors with heavy-obligation energy and always excessive-performance. Exemplifying the really greatest in the business, those corded screw-guns make sure superior overall performance and always excellent results.

To start, Dewalt’s DW276 all-function screw-gun is among the most amazing tools in at present’s industry boasting all the features that make a screw-gun this sort of a necessary instrument. With a whopping 6.five amp variable rate, reversing motor, the tool has the higher torque and big power to master every industrial job. While still weighing only three.six lbs, the device is built with heavy-obligation helical-minimize metal for serious durability, and with warmth-treated gears to make sure a surplus of lengthy years and exceptional overall performance. The device’s higher torque is perfect for heavy- duty applications like deck constructing and heavy gauge metal stud framing, and having a metal gear housing, the device boasts stable durability while ultimate ergonomically comfy and simple to utilize. On another hand, Makita’s 6827 (variable rate, reversible) screwdriver is one large, high- performance, excessive-high quality drill with functions, like a powerful motor and big torque, to trap even the most thoroughbred craftsmen. Mentioned snatch mechanism is created for that such a lot exact and powerful torque, and that includes a silent synchronized pin grab that is both ultra quiet and works to reduce wear, the weapon is certainly long lasting. Positive-Lock level changes provide consistent screw level environment, and, about the inside, the instrument’s warmth handled, system reduce gears provide efficient energy switch and super clean operation. Designed with comfortable style and with a lightweight solid aluminum gear housing, the tool is durable while still offering consolation and controlability. One of the really best drills within the business, Makita’s 6827 is actually a tool you’ll by no means regret adding to your device repertoire.

Furthermore, the device has a ramp-off depth locater for simple and accurate level adjustments, and simply because the device is corded you can be certain it’s energy and capacities will by no means be sub-par. The screwdriver is perfect for software from tough to minimum use; however, nevertheless you utilize the tool, it’ll unquestionably be kicking for any healthy lengthy time. Milwaukee builds a few of the greatest corded drills in the business, and also the 6740-20 is really a shining instance of their long lasting, excessive-performance regular.

With any of these heavy-duty drywall screw-guns craftsmen are sure to appreciate a excellent working experience, and certain to achieve always precise, professional outcomes.

Nailing Or Screwing Drywall

Nails as opposed to screws who will become the winner. While drywall very first arrived out the installers utilized everything from normal metal coil nails to galvanized roofing nails. After a brief amount of your time they began to develop main difficulties from nails coming out from the finished drywall.

Nail popping results when the nail is driven into moist lumber and since the lumber shrinks the house settles and nail can actually come out to the walls. How much the nail might actually pop out was determined by way of how much it used to be driven in to the framing studs or ceiling joists. This labored excellent but those nails were hard to generate in and may often break.

Those new nails worked excellent and experienced good holding energy and eliminated a whole lot of nail popping.

Using coil nails means driving them in with a hammer. If you omit the nail you damage the drywall. This appeared to be a large issue and was practically eliminated with the screws.

Nicely fairly quickly people began utilizing screws which experienced greater retaining energy and pretty a lot nail popping. This means much less exertions setting up and ending the drywall.

There’s one issue using the screws and that is they need to be arranged perfectly. They can no longer holiday the paper surface area on the drywall but have to be set enough into the drywall to ensure that it can be finished properly. Such a lot screw weapons have an adjustable setting used to obtain just the correct depth for the screws set up within the drywall. That doesn’t imply the coil nails just obtained screwed or even the screws simply got nailed.

Original Source: http://www.sooperarticles.com/home-improvement-articles/drywall-screw-gun-palm-sized-112355.html

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Ramset Cobra Tool Kit

The Ramset Cobra tool is a great all around tool built for everyday contractor use. You can find the Ramset Cobra and all of the pins, loads, accessories and…


JiminPA asked How to fasten the sill(2×4 stud)to the concrete floor in basement.?

And got the following answer:

I have built homes for a living for about 7 years now and these are some methods I have used. You can use a concrete nail, which comes in two different kinds, a fluted nail which has ridges that run down the nail and what is called a cut nail, which is a sqaure shape and is tapered, best way to remember this type is that it looks like what I like to call an “old fashioned nail”. They other ways you can do it is to drill the sill plate and then mark the concrete and drill and tap in a concrete anchor and then bolt down the sill. You can also use what is called a tapcon, which you will drill the sill plate again and then drill the conctrete and then you will drive a screw through the sill directly into the concrete, and last but not least you can use a ramset, which is where you drive a concrete nail through the wood into the slab using a blank rifle shell. All these methods I have explained can be found at your local Home Depot or Lowes, the cheapest method would be the concrete nails and the most exspensive would be the ramset, because you would have to buy the gun. Hope this helps.

frenchonion_sunchips asked Questions about powder actuated nail guns?

I decided on a weekend project of building a small room in my basement and am about to purchase the single shot ramset concrete nailer. When Im nailing the 2x4s to the ground should I be using 2 1/2′ nails or 3′ nails? Also, anything I should keep in mind about powder actuated nail guns in general? (besides putting on my safety glasses, etc.)

Thanks in advance

And got the following answer:

Use 3″ nails for 2 x 4s and the yellow loads. Yellow is the most powerful.
Always use the gun at a 90 degree angle to the concrete. You don’t want the nail reflecting out into the room. Safety glasses are good. Use ear plugs.
Hold it firmly and tight against the work.as you pull the trigger.

I’m a builder 30 years.

Robert R asked how do i attach wood to cement?

the cement is old its probly too hard for a cement gun.i dont want to drill holes for anchors because i dont have a Hilti.i got some good construction adhesive but i have no way to brace the wood against the cement while the adhesive sets.any thoughts?
i looked at liquid nail…..i didnt know it sets that fast though.
dave,cement gets harder the older it gets.using a powder gun will just chip the cement or blow a chunk out of it.i know anchors are the right way to do it,but they have a sample peice of wood glued to cement at the hardware store i went to and believe me,its on there good.the wood im using isnt heavy,but i have nothing to brace it against,its up high in the open air.

And got the following answer:

There are many techniques, and which one you use depends on the amount of load you are going to put onto the wood ad whether it is on a floor, wall, or ceiling.

Very light loads, adhesive is fine. Just watch out if there is any moisture coming through the concrete, it can make the adhesive lose grip on the concrete.

Medium loads, nailing from a Ramset gun is fine. This is usually where the load is sitting on the concrete or vertically on awall. Not so good when the load is hanging (e.g. from a ceiling).

Higher loads, or where it hangs from a ceiling, or any building framing, use an expandable bolt system. For this, you use a hammer drill to make a hole, insert the bolt housing into the hole, put the timber on top, and then the bolt through the timber into the housing. Screwing up the bolt expands the housing into the hole and locks it in place. Again, Ramset have a product for this.

If you are mounting build framing, or anything similar, onto floors or walls with earth on the other side, be sure to put a damp-proof coarse between the concrete and the wood. Otherwise moisture going through the contrete will affect the wood. DPC is like a tar paper and blocks moisture from going through. Hammer drills and other tools are available from hire outlets if you do not have them.

Dub over here asked I am starting to re do my basement. How and with what type of nail/screw do I attach the studs to the basement

Also do I drive the Screw/Nail into the brick or into the motar, And is there any general rules that I need to follow—-Thanks

And got the following answer:

There are a couple of options for you. There are screws and nails that are made for masonry (If you can find a good person to help at Home Depot or Lowes, they can point you in the right direction). If you are positive your walls can handle it, you can also use a RAMSET gun to shoot nails into the masonry. This is what I use to attach studs or shoe boards to concrete or masonry. The problem lies in the masonry integrity. If the masonry is week it may blow out some and you wont get a good hold (of course this may be the case for both RAMSET and screws).

know it all asked Can wood paneling be glued to a concrete block basement wall?

I am trying to Finish a room in my basement for myself to watch tv and drink beer. But i am on a tight budget and do not want to frame the whole room in. But i do not like the look of Block wall. I have found some Paneling i like. Does or have any of you ever Glued the paneling to the wall and what did you use to do it?
I forgot to mention the wall has been sealed and painted

And got the following answer:

It’s possible the construction adhesive in tubes would hold for a while if the blocks were painted first with a good moisture stopping paint for cement blocks. It would certainly stick to 1×4 pine boards, laid flat, like ceiling furring strips, attached to the wall. You may need to use a cement nail or one of the Ramset guns you can rent at a Tool Rental Store. You don’t mention where you live, so it would depend on the weather somewhat. If the basement is cold in the winter months, it would be to your advantage to use some of the solid foam insulation board, 3/4″ thick, to put on the walls in between the furring strips. You’d have a really nice solid wall, could actually hang things on it and it should come out nice and straight and smooth.

pezdispenserwisdom asked Is it okay to nail into a cement floor (basement/foundation) ?

Can I nail down a wooden threshold between the ceramic and vinyl floors without hurting the foundation? Are there special nails for such a task?

And got the following answer:

No problem you’d have to use something like a Ramset Explosive Guns e.g. http://www.bianco.com.au/building-supplies/building-machinery/products/power-tools-accessories/ramset-explosive-guns.jsp

But if you are nailing into ceramic the force of the nail will most probably shatter the tile and could be quit dangerous.

I’d go with a drill & plug deal either screw or nail, counter sink it a little, then use a filler to hide the plug hole, you might want to put some moister barrier under the threshold like tar paper and once fixed trim with a stanley type knife .
http://www.mkt-duebel.de/Produkt_Seiten/Nagelduebel_ND/site_ND_eng.htm

http://technox.pl/en/en/index.php?nail-plugs,26

frenchonion_sunchips asked Questions about powder actuated nail guns?

I decided on a weekend project of building a small room in my basement and am about to purchase the single shot ramset concrete nailer. When Im nailing the 2x4s to the ground should I be using 2 1/2′ nails or 3′ nails? Also, anything I should keep in mind about powder actuated nail guns in general? (besides putting on my safety glasses, etc.)

Thanks in advance

And got the following answer:

Use 3″ nails for 2 x 4s and the yellow loads. Yellow is the most powerful.
Always use the gun at a 90 degree angle to the concrete. You don’t want the nail reflecting out into the room. Safety glasses are good. Use ear plugs.
Hold it firmly and tight against the work.as you pull the trigger.

I’m a builder 30 years.

Jeff asked Can .22 caliber Ramset bullets go off by dropping them on a cement floor?

I’ve never accidentally dropped a Ramset bullet before, but I was wondering if they could go off if they were dropped and landed on the striker plate. These are the power loads that you use in the nail gun for fastening 2X4’s to concrete floors (basements and garages).

And got the following answer:

They are too light to go off by dropping one on concrete. Dropping a box of them might be a different story. Throwing them hard at concretet can set them off.