Staple Gun For Upholstery

Upholstery Staple Gun Fasco Long Nose | DIY Upholstery Supply

Industry’s Best Pneumatic Framing Nailers by Mallory Kramer

For many craftsmen, a pneumatic framing nailer is one of the greatest tools in the world. Making quick work of jobs that can take what feels like forever, and doing it with professional strength and precision, these nailers are an irreplaceable asset. If you’re in the market for one of the best framing nailers in the pneumatic world, well, you’re in luck. The following is a compiled, compacted set of reviews of the best framing nailers, and their prices, on the market today.

Hitachi’s NR83A2 framing nailer is one of the most high-quality, high-performance pneumatic framers on the market today. Weighing only 7.9 lbs the tool is clearly lightweight and the tool is extremely well balanced for the most comfortable operation and maneuverability. The framer has a tool-less depth adjustment allowing craftsmen to choose their depth of drive, and with an open nose design, extracting a jammed nail is hardly a hassle. The framer also features selective actuation, a favorite feature of most users, which allow craftsmen to simply transition from single actuation to contact actuation for the greatest versatility through a variety of applications. The tool is strong, fast, and versatile, and because it’s also so lightweight and well-balanced, continuous work and awkward applications are far less strenuous. Ultimately, the NR83A2 is a seriously tough framer built for durability on the jobsite and for reliability through the most heavy-duty applications. Lastly,pricing from about 0 – 0, Hitachi’s framer is a bit spendy, but is worth every penny. (Note: This tool is also available as a sequential trigger gun (NR83A2S) for just about 0.)

On another hand, Porter-Cable’s FR350A 3-1/2″ roundhead framing nailer is one of the more heavy-duty pneumatic framing tools on the market today. With the power to drive nails up to 3-1/2″ x 131″ into engineered lumber, the tool has intense power. The framer’s compact body design contributes to its well-balance and overall smooth style while an internal piston catch mechanism ensures each shot is consistently powerful. A selectable trigger transitions modes between restrictive or contact actuation mode, and with a tool-free adjustable depth-of-drive, craftsmen have complete control over the tool’s performance. The tool is simple to reload, and a nail lockout mechanism alerts you when its time to reload your tool. Keeping your materials protected during work, the framer also has a (tool-free, adjustable) exhaust and a (removable) non-marring nose tip, and also having on-tool storage, the FR350AR is endlessly convenient. Ranging in price from about 0 – 0, the framer is abrilliant tool at a certainly reasonable price.

The FR350A is also available reconditioned (FR350AR) for just about 0. As a reconditioned tool, this nailer presents a truly superior value to craftsmen and builders. For those unfamiliar with recons, they are an extremely great value that bring craftsmen the highest-performance tools at a tiny fraction of regular cost. Reconditioned tools, for some minor cosmetic or technical defect, have been returned to the manufacturer. There, they undergo a series of stringent tests and retests and restoration processes before being re-released with an “R” trailing the model number. This little “R” (and potentially hundreds of dollars) is truly the only difference between a brand new tool and a recon. The value with reconditioned tools is a no-brainer; when they are available, buy them.

Like Hitachi and Porter-Cable, Senco is known for building some of the best pneumatic tools and nailers in the industry. With well-seasoned experience and superior craftsmanship, Senco is an steadfast contender in the world of pneumatics. Pricing from about 0 – 0, their SN902XP framing nailer is a brilliant and saucy little tool with 904 in/lbs of power in a compact, 7.3 lb package. This round head framer is also built with a innovated design that requires up to fifteen-percent less air than other comparable models, and still having the power to drive 2 – 3-1/4″ (round head plastic collated) framing nails with fast efficiency, the nailer perfectly unites precision power and lightweight convenience. The nailer also drives 2″-3-1/2″ smooth shank nails and 2″-3″ ring shank nails. The tool’s compact design also contributes to its ability to work in tight spaces in between studs and joists, and its overall balance and ease of operation. Additionally, the gun is easy to transition from rapid fire to sequential fire and is simple to load and unload for optimal convenience on the job. The SN902XP is ideal for a huge number of applications from framing, fencing and subfloors, to trusses and decking. It additionally has a patented TrueDrive magazine to prevent jamming and an adjustable depth of drive for unfailing precision with every shot. Like the above Porter-Cable nailer, Senco’s SN902XP is also available reconditioned (if you can find it) for about 0.

In the end and whatever your needs may be, one of these nailers is certain to be an ideal framer. With big power, acute precision, and the accountability of a time-honored manufacturer, these pneumatic framing nailers are the best of the best.

Original Source: http://www.articlecity.com/articles/home_improvement/article_4496.shtml


Drywall Screw Gun, Palm Sized By Alfredo Jeffrey Mercado on July 22, 2010 0

These could frequently be badly balanced and hard to utilize. Many businesses at the instant are production expert regular building work resources which are now not compromising build quality however are benefiting from the latest in lightweight technologies. The outcome is a variety of tools, which will often include a palm dimension drywall screw gun, which are as robust as their heavier predecessors but much simpler to utilize. A lot study has long past into the style of the contemporary resources both from a technical and ergonomic viewpoint. Another element of a minimum of one palm size drywall screw gun is actually a nostril piece that will maintain its depth setting. This indicates that if you should need to alter the nostril piece for any cause, you can exchange it without having having to move through all the hard resetting and adjusting. The depth settings are particularly important for drywall function since the screws must be arranged beneath the surface from the board but the screwing motion must stop before damage is done to the paper of the drywall. If time isn’t spent within the establishing from the nostril piece then you will discover your self investing extra time in placing points correct. With those screw weapons you can get rid of the nostril piece without interfering with those settings. This will ensure that you can swap between jobs with ease.

The new breed of construction resources are continuously turning out to be lighter that is, in flip, making them a lot much more easy to use. The palm size drywall screw gun is constructed from materials that have gone through a lot of study and research so that you simply can discover the lightest options possible while still conserving the strength needed for large usage.

Not just the palm size drywall screw gun, but the whole range of contemporary tools has taken a action within the right direction with regards to effectiveness, security and relieve of use.

three Greatest Corded Drywall Screw-Weapons

Fortunately for these difficult toolers, Dewalt, Makita, and Milwaukee every offer a corded drywall screw-gun that rises above the competitors with heavy-obligation energy and always excessive-performance. Exemplifying the really greatest in the business, those corded screw-guns make sure superior overall performance and always excellent results.

To start, Dewalt’s DW276 all-function screw-gun is among the most amazing tools in at present’s industry boasting all the features that make a screw-gun this sort of a necessary instrument. With a whopping 6.five amp variable rate, reversing motor, the tool has the higher torque and big power to master every industrial job. While still weighing only three.six lbs, the device is built with heavy-obligation helical-minimize metal for serious durability, and with warmth-treated gears to make sure a surplus of lengthy years and exceptional overall performance. The device’s higher torque is perfect for heavy- duty applications like deck constructing and heavy gauge metal stud framing, and having a metal gear housing, the device boasts stable durability while ultimate ergonomically comfy and simple to utilize. On another hand, Makita’s 6827 (variable rate, reversible) screwdriver is one large, high- performance, excessive-high quality drill with functions, like a powerful motor and big torque, to trap even the most thoroughbred craftsmen. Mentioned snatch mechanism is created for that such a lot exact and powerful torque, and that includes a silent synchronized pin grab that is both ultra quiet and works to reduce wear, the weapon is certainly long lasting. Positive-Lock level changes provide consistent screw level environment, and, about the inside, the instrument’s warmth handled, system reduce gears provide efficient energy switch and super clean operation. Designed with comfortable style and with a lightweight solid aluminum gear housing, the tool is durable while still offering consolation and controlability. One of the really best drills within the business, Makita’s 6827 is actually a tool you’ll by no means regret adding to your device repertoire.

Furthermore, the device has a ramp-off depth locater for simple and accurate level adjustments, and simply because the device is corded you can be certain it’s energy and capacities will by no means be sub-par. The screwdriver is perfect for software from tough to minimum use; however, nevertheless you utilize the tool, it’ll unquestionably be kicking for any healthy lengthy time. Milwaukee builds a few of the greatest corded drills in the business, and also the 6740-20 is really a shining instance of their long lasting, excessive-performance regular.

With any of these heavy-duty drywall screw-guns craftsmen are sure to appreciate a excellent working experience, and certain to achieve always precise, professional outcomes.

Nailing Or Screwing Drywall

Nails as opposed to screws who will become the winner. While drywall very first arrived out the installers utilized everything from normal metal coil nails to galvanized roofing nails. After a brief amount of your time they began to develop main difficulties from nails coming out from the finished drywall.

Nail popping results when the nail is driven into moist lumber and since the lumber shrinks the house settles and nail can actually come out to the walls. How much the nail might actually pop out was determined by way of how much it used to be driven in to the framing studs or ceiling joists. This labored excellent but those nails were hard to generate in and may often break.

Those new nails worked excellent and experienced good holding energy and eliminated a whole lot of nail popping.

Using coil nails means driving them in with a hammer. If you omit the nail you damage the drywall. This appeared to be a large issue and was practically eliminated with the screws.

Nicely fairly quickly people began utilizing screws which experienced greater retaining energy and pretty a lot nail popping. This means much less exertions setting up and ending the drywall.

There’s one issue using the screws and that is they need to be arranged perfectly. They can no longer holiday the paper surface area on the drywall but have to be set enough into the drywall to ensure that it can be finished properly. Such a lot screw weapons have an adjustable setting used to obtain just the correct depth for the screws set up within the drywall. That doesn’t imply the coil nails just obtained screwed or even the screws simply got nailed.

Original Source: http://www.sooperarticles.com/home-improvement-articles/drywall-screw-gun-palm-sized-112355.html

Staple Gun For Upholstery News:

Upholstery Stapler – YouTube

Upholstery staple Gun How To use at www.diyupholsterysupply.com

Original Source: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PUPImWJdAs

Upholstery Staple Guns – Compare Prices, Reviews and Buy at Nextag

Upholstery Staple Guns – 33 results like SpotNails JS5016 20 Gauge Upholstery Stapler, 1/4″ – 9/16″, Beal Street BeA 71/16-421 Upholstery Stapler, 1/4″ to 5/8 …

Original Source: http://www.nextag.com/Upholstery-Staple-Guns/products-html

Amazon.com: upholstery staple gun

Drive traffic from Amazon.com to your website. Get in free clicks! Amazon Product Ads is a highly targeted pay-per-click advertising program that puts your …

Original Source: http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aupholstery%20staple%20gun

Staples & Guns | DIY Upholstery Supply – Upholstery Fabric, Tools …

You definitely need an air upholstery stapler for your re-upholstery job. Electric will not work as well as air. Air upholstery staplers require an air compressor. If …

Original Source: http://www.diyupholsterysupply.com/staples-and-guns.html

Upholstery Staple Guns – Compare Prices, Reviews and Buy at Nextag

Upholstery Staple Guns – 33 results like SpotNails JS5016 20 Gauge Upholstery Stapler, 1/4″ – 9/16″, Beal Street BeA 71/16-421 Upholstery Stapler, 1/4″ to 5/8 …

Original Source: http://www.nextag.com/Upholstery-Staple-Guns/products-html


How to Reupholster a Chair

A video tutorial on how to easily reupholster the seat cushion of a chair. An easy way to bring life back to your existing dining chairs or to renew a set of…


alan j asked what is the wire gauge size for a grizzly upholstery stapler H5626?

I have a Grizzly brand Upholstery Stapler (part Number H5626) its been discontinued from Grizzly. Does anyone know what the wire GAUGE size is. Or where I can order the staples for the gun. its a 3/8″ crown but its a Small wire Maybe a 22 gauge not sure.

And got the following answer:

http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h5626_m.pdf

http://www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com/grizzly.htm

This stapler fires 22 gauge fine wire, 1⁄4″-5⁄8″ crown staples and features an easy
clear magazine. The first site is the Grizzly site manual. The second site is one
where I order many fasteners from, including Grizzly staples.

curious1223 asked How easy it is to re-upholster a chair/barstool (DIY)?

I have two bars stools with badly stained white fabric on the seat. The seat comes off with a few screws, and the fabric appears to be stapled in underneath. Can I just get some fabric, cut it and re-staple (after removing old staples)? Is it that easy or am I missing something? Any tricks I should know about? Thanks!
It’s a square bar-height chair, so I guess I’m in luck 🙂
Does anyone know if I should use a regular/standard office staple or some sort of industrial/heavy duty version?

And got the following answer:

I would definitely use a higher quality staple and gun. it will keep the fabric from tearing or popping out when you sit on it. be sure to find fabric that is upholstery qualitly too so it doesn’t tear easily. pull all four sides tight (lets say north side then south, then east then west) then the corners, tucking ripples in on themselves and then stapling. an extra set of hands is always helpful in this project. you can do it though for sure.

Veeeeeeez k asked I would like to start a sofa manufacturing business?

I would like to start manufacturing sofas and other upholstery furniture like, headboards, ottomans, sofas etc. I would like to start very small, so that i can see if i enjoy it. what equipment are a must have? Where can i buy them at good prices? Are there any books i can buy online that are a good guide for a beginner in the sofa making business and that have good ideas on different designs and how to create ones own design.

And got the following answer:

To be concerned in the manufacture of Upholstered goods you would ideally have to have some experience of the trade either working in an Upholstery workshop or have taken a college course in the trade, this would give you a good understanding of the type of work and the skills involved in making furniture to a standard that is acceptable to the customer, ideally you would need over 5 years training before taking on anything large scale as there’s so much to learn and if you make a mess of someone’s furniture they won’t be very pleased

You will need,
A thorough understanding of the principles involved in Upholstery
Good Eye for detail
Some basic business skills
A love for Upholstery (if you don’t have this don’t go any further, the trade is neither well paid or very entertaining)
A knowledge of different types of fabrics and their application

A good few hand tools including:
Air compressor
Air staple gun
Staple remover
Tailors shears
Hammer
Mallet
Bench
Fabric cutting table (you won’t get away with cutting on the floor)
Stanley type knife
Walking foot seing machine
Buttoning Machine
the list is endless…………..

A good starting point is to buy the book UPHOLSTERY A Complete Course by David James ISBN 0-946819-19-x available on Amazon, I just picked up a copy for a friend for £6

This will give you a good idea of all aspects of the trade and is in actual fact used in UK colleges as the basis of the NVQ level 2 Upholstery courses and their component modules

Most of the tools you will need are available on Ebay but you will pay over the odds for most of them through that site, As I don’t know where you are from I can’t advise you on local suppliers.

I have been in the trade for 20 year and would encourage you to start with the basics and let your skill’s develop over time as they do so your appreciation of the work you produce will give you the confidence to tackle the bigger jobs

www.lounje.co.uk

holly p asked how do i refabric a dining room chair when the cushion cant be removed?

ive recently bought a second hand dining room table and 4 chairs, the seat pads are green though and not very nice, ive bought some fake leather in brown to match my sofas but how do i put them on? i was thinking of a staple gun but im not sure!

And got the following answer:

You can use a stapler or upholstery tacks. Then you can hot glue a trim around to cover up the staples. If the staples will not work u can also use very small nails with a wide head. Good Luck.

I gotz that wicked clown love asked How do you upholster a built in bench seat?

it has a custom design and comes with the house,.. i have an idea on how to upholster it but im not sure if its correct… take some padding, but what kind? wrap fabric around then staple to the wood?

And got the following answer:

Yes, as answerer Will B said, foam or polyester batting, of whatever thicknesses you want, will do.

I’ve found a couple more helpful hints about this, though, some from sad experience. What is it they say about experience being the hardest teacher? — Because experience always gives you the test first, and the lesson afterward? 😀

Once you’ve chosen your padding, cut it to only a little bit larger than the size of the seat. You don’t want the whole thickness of the padding on the underside of the seat, it should only sit on the top-side.

I’m assuming that the actual hard part of the seat is a sheet of plywood. Buy some heavy fabric as an under-layer for the nice upholstery fabric cover. A medium-light canvas will do, or a very heavy unbleached calico. Cut this fabric to a rectangle that is about 4-6-inches wider ALL AROUND the seat-bottom, PLUS the thickness of the padding. Lay the canvas/other fabric underlayer on a clean floor; center the padding on top; then center the wood seat-bottom panel on top of the padding. Fold the extended edges of the (canvas?) under-fabric up onto the plywood seat-bottom.

Attach the fabric to the wood by your preferred method (staple-gun, lacing with heavy sewing or carpet thread, carpet-tacks, whatever). I prefer to lace the turned-under-once fabric edges to their opposites across the width and length of the plywood, because then I know that no-one will ever be stabbed by sharp pointy bits when the padding eventually gets old and pancake-y.

ATTACHING THE FABRIC:
1) For a smooth seat, always start attaching in the center of each pair of sides, working towards a pair of corners. IOW, staple the fabric to the wood in the center of, say, one long side.

2) Gently pull the fabric taut against that staple directly across from it, on the opposite long side. Fold the fabric over the wood: now shoot a staple opposite from the first one. The fabric between those two staples should be smooth and even on the top side of the seat, without too much tension.

3) The next (third) staple will be to, say, the left of the first staple. Pull the fabric gently taut between staple one and the new attachment-point, and shoot staple #3 into place.

4) Repeat step (2) for the fourth staple, gently pulling the fabric taut in two directions this time, first, taut against staple #2, and second, taut against staple #3.

5) Repeat this all the way to the corners. Check the top-side of the seat as you go, to make sure there are no wrinkles and puffs in the stapled areas of the fabric.

6) Then go back to the center of the long sides, and repeat these steps all the way to the other two corners.

7) Starting at the center of one short side, repeat steps (1) through (6). You should not have to pull quite so hard on the fabric to get a smooth, lightly-tautened surface.

8) Trim the excess fabric at the corners on the underside, and your seat is fully upholstered. The purpose of the under-layer fabric is so you can easily replace the cover fabric anytime you want without a huge hassle.

Now all you need is to repeat all this with your fine-fabric cover. Just don’t do what I once did, and choose a beautiful fabric that isn’t color-fast. I had kids and guests getting up with strangely green bottoms for two weeks before I realized the mistake!

And don’t do what a friend of mine did: she used a good, heavy knit fabric — which stretches — which ended up all wrinkled and horrible-looking. She then replaced the knit with a polyester fabric she got cheap — only that one developed hundreds of pills almost immediately.

I hope this helps. And do have fun! Good luck!

curious1223 asked How easy it is to re-upholster a chair/barstool (DIY)?

I have two bars stools with badly stained white fabric on the seat. The seat comes off with a few screws, and the fabric appears to be stapled in underneath. Can I just get some fabric, cut it and re-staple (after removing old staples)? Is it that easy or am I missing something? Any tricks I should know about? Thanks!
It’s a square bar-height chair, so I guess I’m in luck 🙂
Does anyone know if I should use a regular/standard office staple or some sort of industrial/heavy duty version?

And got the following answer:

I would definitely use a higher quality staple and gun. it will keep the fabric from tearing or popping out when you sit on it. be sure to find fabric that is upholstery qualitly too so it doesn’t tear easily. pull all four sides tight (lets say north side then south, then east then west) then the corners, tucking ripples in on themselves and then stapling. an extra set of hands is always helpful in this project. you can do it though for sure.

3120love asked Where can I find an apholstery stapler thats not too expensive?

I am looking for a simple apholstery stapler that dosen’t need an air compressor for usability. I need to staple down inside a narrow ridge, so the flat staplers will not work for this. Where can I buy one?

And got the following answer:

Arrow makes an electric staple gun that also shoots brads. They start at around $20 and are very handy to have around the house. As a professional upholsterer with over 20 years experience I can tell you that tacks are not the way to go. They don’t hold as well as staples, they are much harder for an amateur to use, and you have to buy a magnetic hammer (about $8-$10) or have 3 hands. Oh, and the hammer is almost worthless for anything except upholstery tacks.

I gotz that wicked clown love asked How do you upholster a built in bench seat?

it has a custom design and comes with the house,.. i have an idea on how to upholster it but im not sure if its correct… take some padding, but what kind? wrap fabric around then staple to the wood?

And got the following answer:

Yes, as answerer Will B said, foam or polyester batting, of whatever thicknesses you want, will do.

I’ve found a couple more helpful hints about this, though, some from sad experience. What is it they say about experience being the hardest teacher? — Because experience always gives you the test first, and the lesson afterward? 😀

Once you’ve chosen your padding, cut it to only a little bit larger than the size of the seat. You don’t want the whole thickness of the padding on the underside of the seat, it should only sit on the top-side.

I’m assuming that the actual hard part of the seat is a sheet of plywood. Buy some heavy fabric as an under-layer for the nice upholstery fabric cover. A medium-light canvas will do, or a very heavy unbleached calico. Cut this fabric to a rectangle that is about 4-6-inches wider ALL AROUND the seat-bottom, PLUS the thickness of the padding. Lay the canvas/other fabric underlayer on a clean floor; center the padding on top; then center the wood seat-bottom panel on top of the padding. Fold the extended edges of the (canvas?) under-fabric up onto the plywood seat-bottom.

Attach the fabric to the wood by your preferred method (staple-gun, lacing with heavy sewing or carpet thread, carpet-tacks, whatever). I prefer to lace the turned-under-once fabric edges to their opposites across the width and length of the plywood, because then I know that no-one will ever be stabbed by sharp pointy bits when the padding eventually gets old and pancake-y.

ATTACHING THE FABRIC:
1) For a smooth seat, always start attaching in the center of each pair of sides, working towards a pair of corners. IOW, staple the fabric to the wood in the center of, say, one long side.

2) Gently pull the fabric taut against that staple directly across from it, on the opposite long side. Fold the fabric over the wood: now shoot a staple opposite from the first one. The fabric between those two staples should be smooth and even on the top side of the seat, without too much tension.

3) The next (third) staple will be to, say, the left of the first staple. Pull the fabric gently taut between staple one and the new attachment-point, and shoot staple #3 into place.

4) Repeat step (2) for the fourth staple, gently pulling the fabric taut in two directions this time, first, taut against staple #2, and second, taut against staple #3.

5) Repeat this all the way to the corners. Check the top-side of the seat as you go, to make sure there are no wrinkles and puffs in the stapled areas of the fabric.

6) Then go back to the center of the long sides, and repeat these steps all the way to the other two corners.

7) Starting at the center of one short side, repeat steps (1) through (6). You should not have to pull quite so hard on the fabric to get a smooth, lightly-tautened surface.

8) Trim the excess fabric at the corners on the underside, and your seat is fully upholstered. The purpose of the under-layer fabric is so you can easily replace the cover fabric anytime you want without a huge hassle.

Now all you need is to repeat all this with your fine-fabric cover. Just don’t do what I once did, and choose a beautiful fabric that isn’t color-fast. I had kids and guests getting up with strangely green bottoms for two weeks before I realized the mistake!

And don’t do what a friend of mine did: she used a good, heavy knit fabric — which stretches — which ended up all wrinkled and horrible-looking. She then replaced the knit with a polyester fabric she got cheap — only that one developed hundreds of pills almost immediately.

I hope this helps. And do have fun! Good luck!